Days 145 & 146

Wednesday & Thursday

Sept 10 & 11, 2025

WEDNESDAY—Smooth Crossing & a Hidden Gem

We woke early, coffee in hand, as the peaceful morning hum of boats firing up filled the air. Engines warming, seagulls calling, and the water glistening — it was the perfect setup for our Lake Michigan crossing. Most boats around us were headed to Sturgeon Bay, but we charted a course a bit farther north, aiming for Fayette Historic State Park — a spot we were excited to explore and anchor out.

The lake greeted us gently at first with 1-footers, then eased into 2-footers — nothing we couldn’t handle. About mid-crossing, things picked up to 3–4 footers for a stretch. It was bumpy but still comfortable — a welcome change from the “washing machine” chaos we’d endured the other day. We throttled up for 10–12 miles to smooth it out, then settled back down once the waves calmed. From there, the swells turned easy and rolling, and we cruised into calmer waters.

The full run was 62.5 miles and took about 7 hours. As we pulled into Fayette, we were met with stillness — a quiet anchorage, brand-new docks (with electric and water!), and not another boat in sight. Total solitude.

Once we were settled, we dinghied to shore and set off to explore this fascinating ghost town from the 1800s. Founded in 1867 to manufacture pig iron, the town boomed briefly, then faded away by 1891. Walking among the restored buildings, you could feel the history — the ambition, the industry, and the eerie quiet left behind. It was one of those places that feels untouched by time.

https://www.michigan.gov/mhc/museums/fayette

We covered most of the site but saved a few buildings — and the trails — for tomorrow. Back on the boat, we fired up the generator to cook dinner… but it wouldn’t stay running longer than 30 seconds. Captain Jeff dove into the engine room and went through all the usual checks, but no luck. With no power to cook, we reluctantly pulled up anchor and tied off at the dock instead. Thankfully, the power pedestals were still on — the visitor center was closed for carpet installation (of all things), so once again, we had the place to ourselves. Not the night we planned, but all things considered, not a bad place to end the day.

THURSDAY—Ghost Towns & Trail Time

We started the day with a bit of detective work, calling around to marinas along our route to get the generator looked at. Lucky break: we found a mechanic in Sister Bay, WI (Door County — for those not in the know), who not only thinks he knows the issue but has the part in stock. So, slight change of plans: we’ll head there tomorrow and skip our intended stop at Washington Island.

With that squared away, we headed back out to finish exploring Fayette. The remaining buildings were just as fascinating, and afterward we hit the trails. First, we walked the rock-strewn shoreline, then wandered through the quiet campground — over 60 campsites tucked into the woods.

After lunch, we took off for the trail to “the point,” which turned out to be a highlight of the trip — a peaceful, scenic hike beneath a tall, ancient – some up to 1400 years old, weathered canopy of cedars, their trunks rising straight and quiet. Mixed in were maples and oaks, their leaves just beginning to turn. The forest felt still, (but you know me…I was on the lookout for bears, but thankfully didn’t see any 🥹). What a great place. It’s a kind of wild beauty that felt completely untouched.

By the end of the day, we’d hiked just about every path we could find. It’s amazing — this place is packed with history, beauty, and solitude, and yet it feels like a well-kept secret. One of those rare gems you stumble upon and wonder why it’s not on every travel list.