Days 203–208 Down to Pensacola, FL

Sunday November 9–Friday November 14, 2025

SUNDAY

It’s so nice to see dolphins everyday again! We cruised slow today soaking in the scenery of the GICW (Gulf Intracoastal Waterway). Houses along here are mostly on stilts due to storm surge. We stopped at Lulu’s for lunch in Gulf Shores before heading to our anchorage for the next two days. Jeff and I worked on the next piece of isinglass which is very hard to sew on being 52x 82😳. The wind has already started to pick up and it will be blustery until Tuesday morning. We are tucked away in a very protected spot. They have freeze warnings down here! Brrrrr!

MONDAY

We stayed in our anchorage today. The winds are brutal and it’s chilly! The high today is 52, but with bright sun so that’s a plus! We worked on more isinglass. What a pain to sew on such big sections in a space that’s hard to lay them out. Two of the three large sections are finished. Jeff grilled pork tenderloin on our new little grill! It’s going to get quite chilly tonight!

TUESDAY

It got down to 32! Brrrrr!!! It was hard to get out from under the covers this morning. Tomorrow it starts warming back up. We are headed into the marina today where we will keep the boat while we go home for a couple of months. We are looking forward to seeing family and friends!!

We pulled into the marina, we are now back in Florida! We got settled into our slip, and headed straight to the office to check in. A few hiccups popped up — nothing disastrous, just the usual boating adventures. They’d assigned us a 30-amp hookup instead of the 50-amp we need, and there weren’t two 30s available nearby to combine. Whenever we use our adapter, it only powers half the boat — and of course, it’s always the half without the stovetop or microwave. Not exactly ideal when you’re trying to cook up the last of your food before heading home for two months!

To top it off, we found out there’s no laundry here — which I had planned to tackle today. Ugh! But the office gal couldn’t have been nicer. She even offered to take my clothes home and wash them herself! 😊 We compromised on her driving me to the laundromat tomorrow.

Once we got back and plugged in, we discovered that this marina actually wired their pedestals correctly — and voilà, the whole boat lit up with power. YAY! The only thing we can’t use is the air/heat, but our little portable heater will do just fine.

At the end of the day, I reminded myself why we chose this marina: not for the amenities, but for the work we’re having done and a safe spot to keep the boat for the next two months.

WEDNESDAY

This morning was all about laundry—glorious, everything-at-once laundry! With so many washers open, I felt like I’d won some kind of domestic lottery. While I was conquering Mount Washmore, Jeff was busy swapping out fuel filters and crankcase filters like a pro. He even squeezed in a visit with the fiberglass guy, who’ll be repairing the port side of our swim platform once the boat is hauled out for bottom paint.

Meanwhile, I wrapped up what I thought were the final three big isinglass curtains for the back… only to discover one of them was just a smidge off. Ugh! But hey—at least tomorrow is another day, and I’ll take all the do-overs I can get!

THURSDAY

Today the diesel mechanic came by to give everything a once-over. We left him with a small list of projects to tackle while we’re gone… which mysteriously seemed to grow longer by the minute. At some point all I could hear was “wa wa wa wa wa…”—full-on Charlie Brown teacher mode—and all I could see were giant floating 💲💲💲💲 signs!

But honestly, I’m confident everything will get taken care of exactly the way we need it to. On the bright side, we finished the last of the three big pieces of isinglass. We hung them temporarily to make sure they fit—success!—and now they’re packed away until we’re back, since mechanics will be coming and going over the next month or so.

Progress… with a side of comic relief. 😄

FRIDAY

This morning we rented a car and drove to Gulfport to visit a dear friend of mine. I tried to see her last year when we were driving back from Florida, but that unexpected snowstorm hit and was going to shut everything down for a few days, so we had to head north sooner than planned.

She’s been bravely battling brain cancer for more than 15 years, going through surgeries, chemo, and radiation—yet she’s remained such a trooper through it all. It’s been a long time since I’ve been able to see her, so today felt incredibly special. We spent the morning visiting and even got to go out to lunch together. We’re already making plans for January so she and her husband can come see the boat—and hopefully join us for a ride.

We’ve been friends since we were about eight years old. Our parents were both boaters, which is how we met. When we were eleven, both our families took a trip together to bring their boat from Minnesota down to Morgan City, Louisiana, for some work. Our dads traded off at the helm so the boat could run day and night. It took about eight days to get there, and then just a day and a half for all eight of us to pile into a big old car and drive back home. Besides Minnesota, she’s lived in Arizona, Georgia, and Mississippi over the years, and I’ve visited her in every one of those places.

Today was such a blessing. My heart is full. 🥰

Tomorrow we head home for two months. We are looking forward to seeing family and friends❤️

•3933 Miles

•209 Sleeps

•17 States + Canada

•124 Locks

•2622 Gallons of Diesel

•So many cool adventures

•Too many new friends to count

We come back mid January and will continue through the panhandle, down the west coast of Florida, to the keys, then back up to Jacksonville where we will cross our wake. We anticipate that to be end of March to mid April!

Days 199-203 Demopolis,AL to Mobile Bay, AL

Tuesday November 4–Saturday November 8, 2025

TUESDAY

We had yet another mechanic take a look at the port engine today. It’s proving to be a tricky one—sporadic issues are always the hardest to pin down! In addition to needing new fuel injectors (which apparently no one can seem to find 😔), we’re still not sure if there’s something else going on. The mechanic isn’t certain either.

Since getting the parts could take quite a while, we decided to hold off until we reach Pensacola, where we’ll be leaving the boat for a couple of months. Thankfully, we’ve already connected with a great mechanic at the marina there who’s willing to order the parts for us. The mechanic assured us waiting until Pensacola is not an issue or harmful to the engine, just less efficient🥹

For now, everyone agrees it’s fine to keep going as is. So, this afternoon we grabbed the courtesy car, stocked up on provisions, and even squeezed in a peaceful walk through the woods. We came across a beautiful clearing—too pretty not to snap a photo! 🌿📸

Backwaters of the Tombigbee River

This evening, the six of us—David & Candace from Too Nasty, Bonnie & Louis from Goldilocks, and us—gathered for dinner at a lively Mexican restaurant. So much laughter, good food, and great company! Not sure when our wakes will cross again—hopefully sometime in January or February down in Florida.

What a wonderful night! 🌮✨

Dinner at Las Fuentes

WEDNESDAY

Bright and early start to our day. We left the marina a bit after 7am to make the 8am lockage. It was just a few miles downstream. This is the only lock we have today. There is only one more lock before Mobile Bay and then we are DONE with ALL the locks! Yippee!!

All of the mechanics have been telling us that speed is what this boat likes and we should continue to “run them up” so we’ve been running it a bit faster at least once or twice a day. Of course, we do this today and all is going well the first 15 minutes, then the turbo charger on the engine we’ve been having issues with went out. UGH! Well, now we have another item to add to the list in Pensacola. Wonder how expensive that will be🙄

The rest of the day went just fine. We traveled over 70 miles today. The current was our friend, but it was still a long day. I started the task of making new isinglass curtains. We ended our day in Bashi Creek. Cute and serene anchorage that fits about 3 boats our size or smaller. There are 3 of us all in a row (it’s very narrow) using both bow and stern anchors. There are two larger boats just off the channel anchored in another designated anchorage as well we all went through the lock together.

THURSDAY

We all got another early start for another long day. The Tombigbee River gets a little old since there is not much differentiation of senery along the way. Normally by now the fall leaves would be spectacular and that would have made such a huge difference. We went through the final lock!!! We ended our day at an anchorage called Three Rivers Lake. Another 70+ mile day.

FRIDAY

Today was a 40 mile day. We ended at Little Lizard Creek. Another peaceful anchorage but boy did the humidity and temp change. The mosquitos came out and so did the no-see-ums! Nooooo!

SATURDAY

We left our anchorage with the plan to go to Dog River inlet, but looking at the weather we decided to go through all of Mobile Bay to get into the Intra Coastal. The change of scenery was very welcome. Although the Tenn-Tom and Tombigbee were full of nature, it just got to be long. The winds will be picking up from the north tomorrow for a couple of days enough that you would not want to be in the bay. We ended at Bon Secour River South Anchorage. 52 miles. Very quiet bay near a “fix it” type boat yard.

This stretch was 226 miles.

Beautiful anchorage!

Days 194–198 DOWN THE TENN-TOM WATERWAY

Thursday October 30-Monday Nov 3, 2025

THURSDAY

We left the marina and started down the Tenn-Tom waterway. The Tennessee–Tombigbee Waterway (Tenn-Tom) is a 234-mile artificial waterway connecting the Tennessee River to the Black Warrior–Tombigbee River system, providing commercial navigation from the U.S. interior to the Gulf of Mexico. Completed in 1984 by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, it includes 10 locks and dams. We found an anchorage just above the first lock, which is under construction and so often times boaters have been experiencing longs delays at this lock. By the time the sun was setting there were 3 of us in the anchorage, one boat is our good friends Goldilocks. Another looper that anchored a bit away came to see us so we could all make plans to go through the locks together. I agreed to call the lock at 6:30am. We were invited to go to Goldilocks for game night. Azul! It was very fun—I even won!

FRIDAY

Today we woke up to call the lock master at 6:30 to see what the schedule for us will be. He told us to be ready by 8am. So besides the 4 boats at anchor, there were another 3 at the marina close by. But guess what? We had thick fog! We were anchored here in a small cove so we couldn’t see if out in the channel was better.

Just before 8 and went out to check it out. The sun came out but the fog was still pretty thick. Goldilocks was with us, so we just hung out there for awhile. Finally the fog lifted enough that all 7 of us made it into the lock after an hour delay. The rest of the day went much smoother than the start. Just about every other lock was ready for us when we arrived. The 7 of us travelled through the first 3 locks together, then 4 boats went into a marina after that. The 3 of us continued on through 3 more locks then found a great anchorage for the night. We travelled just under 40 miles in 7 hours and went through 6 locks🥴 Tomorrow we will go at it again.

SATURDAY

Another long day. We found the lone freestanding phone booth in the middle of nowhere. The nearby homeowner thought it would be cool to put it here to let people know they are now in Alabama. We found a great anchorage in Pickensville just above the Tom Bevill Lock. We shared an enchilada dinner with Bonnie and Louis tonight on our boat, then a rematch of Azul…this time I came in last🤪. Loads of fun!

SUNDAY

Today was 36 miles in just under 6 hours. 2 locks, another nice anchorage. Tonight we went over to Bonnie and Louis and sang while Louis played guitar, very fun! Then, yes…they taught us another fun game. This time a fast paced card game our grandkids will love! Tomorrow it’s on to Demopolis for us!

Enjoy some wildlife photos!

Eagle fishing on foot

MONDAY

On our 42 mile journey today to Demopolis we went past the white Cliffs of Epes! Very pretty! They are part of the Selma Chalk formations which were deposited at about the same time as England’s famous White Cliffs of Dover. A few tows and barges today! Made it to Kingfisher Marina around 2. We saw David and Candace from Too Nasty! We hadn’t seen them since St Ignace! Time sure flies! We are having them over for dinner tonight to catch up! They have their boat pulled out and are sanding and painting the bottom themselves! Brave souls❤️

We are officially done with the Tenn-Tom Waterway! Once we leave Demopolis, we will be on the Tom Bigbee River for 217 miles before hitting Mobile Bay!

Days 189-193 Pickwick to Grand Harbor Marina

Saturday October 25-29, 2025

Saturday

Had such a wonderfully peaceful night’s sleep last night. We spent the day tucked into our projects (yes, I’m still sewing the captain’s cushions — getting closer though!). In the late afternoon, we took the dinghy over to the marina for docktails with Bonnie and Louis from Goldilocks and Jon and Claire from Inception II.

As the sun started to dip, we all strolled over to the Pickwick Lodge restaurant for dinner. The food was excellent — one of those meals that feels extra good just because the company is so easy and full of laughter. We hadn’t seen Jon and Claire in ages, so it was such a treat to catch up and share stories from the season. What a fun night!

SUNDAY

Just as we expected, we woke up to rain this morning. We are waiting for a small window to move from our anchorage to a covered slip at Grand Harbor Marina. We finally have the long awaited date with a diesel mechanic today to help figure out our issue with the port engine. It acts up (missing and surging) one day, then the next it’s fine. Hopefully it’s the fuel injectors. 🤞🏻

We made the short jaunt to the marina into a covered slip before more rain came. The mechanic will come tomorrow so laundry was a good choice today.

MONDAY

The mechanic showed up today but cannot totally pinpoint the problem. He will be back to change oil and filters on Wednesday and has also referred us to a different mechanic that specializes in Volvo Penta engines. He is coming Wednesday as well. It has been rainy, windy and chilly anyway so good time to be in a marina. We are working on the last seat and have received our order of clear vinyl so I can replace some of the cloudy isinglass and broken zippers. We took the courtesy car and made a quick trip to the local store to pick up a few things.

TUESDAY

Historic Helen Keller’s Home to Iconic Muscle Shoals Recording Studio!

Today we took the courtesy car on a little adventure, and our first stop turned out to be an unexpected gem—Helen Keller’s childhood home in Tuscumbia, Alabama. We hadn’t planned it originally, but when we realized it was right on our route, we had to make time for it.

The home, built in 1820, has been lovingly preserved and still feels alive with history. Amazingly, the Keller family were the only ones ever to live there until they eventually gifted it to the city.

Helen was born in 1880, a bright and healthy child who began speaking full sentences before her first birthday. But at just 19 months old, a severe illness and dangerously high fever left her both deaf and blind. Despite the challenges, Helen’s intelligence and determination shone through from the very beginning.

Her parents sought help and found Anne Sullivan, the remarkable teacher who would change Helen’s life forever. Anne moved in with the Kellers and became Helen’s companion, mentor, and lifelong friend. Through endless patience and persistence, Anne taught Helen to communicate by spelling words into her hand—and from there, the world opened up.

Their most famous breakthrough happened at the water pump just outside the home, where Helen made the connection between the cool stream of water and the letters Anne traced into her palm. Standing there today, beside that very pump, gave me chills.

Inside, the house is filled with photographs, newspaper clippings, Helen’s childhood dresses, and even Braille labels marking the rooms. Every detail tells a piece of her extraordinary journey—from a frustrated child trapped in silence to a college graduate, author, and tireless advocate for the deaf and blind. Helen lived nearly 88 incredible years, leaving behind a legacy that still inspires the world.

I wish we’d had more time there—it was such a moving and unexpected stop on our day’s adventure.

Next stop: Muscle Shoals Recording Studio—about an hour’s drive away—and met up with our friends Bonnie and Louis and their crew for a tour. The studio was much smaller than I expected, but wow, what a powerhouse of history packed into those walls. You could practically feel the music in the air.

So many incredible artists have walked through that door and created pure magic there. It all began at FAME Studios, just down the road. That’s where the legendary house band—the Swampers—was born: David Hood, Roger Hawkins, Jimmy Johnson, and Barry Beckett. After a dispute in 1969, the Swampers struck out on their own, founding Muscle Shoals Sound Studio at 3614 Jackson Highway in Sheffield, Alabama. They became the first group of musicians to own their own recording studio—trailblazers in every sense.

FAME had just signed an exclusive deal with Capitol Records, but the Swampers wanted freedom—to make music with anyone and everyone, regardless of label. Their new studio had a quirky past, too—it was originally a coffin showroom! 😳

The first artist to record there was none other than Cher, cutting her first solo album, aptly titled 3614 Jackson Highway. Even though the record didn’t take off, word spread fast, and soon every big name wanted to record in that unassuming little building.

The Swampers were the heartbeat behind countless hits, constantly experimenting and shaping new sounds—like the iconic piano intro on Bob Seger’s Old Time Rock and Roll and Lynyrd Skynyrd’s Free Bird. (Fun fact: that haunting piano intro was played by a friend of the band who just happened to be a classically trained pianist—they had no idea!)

Every story we heard on the tour felt like uncovering a secret piece of rock ’n’ roll history. What an unforgettable experience.

Great day for exploring!

WEDNESDAY

Another rainy drizzly day. Had a couple mechanic visits. Seems the injectors need to be replaced but they have to be ordered. Hopefully the mechanic will bring them to Demopolis when we arrive in a few days to swap them out. We also had the oil changed. Heading out tomorrow.

Days 186-188 To the borders of Tennessee, Mississippi and Alabama.

Wednesday October 22nd to Friday October 25, 2025

WEDNESDAY

We traveled from Little Crooked Creek to Lick Creek today. It was a little intimidating getting into the anchorage, but once in, it was perfect. No wakes, no boats and very peaceful. Jeff started tearing apart his captains chair for me as I started cutting the new foam a material for it. Yikes! It has at least nine pieces to it. Hope I can do it justice.

THURSDAY

Today’s journey took us from Lick Creek to Swallow Bluff Island Anchorage. Once anchored, I began sewing. A couple of other looper boats joined us in this beautiful anchorage.

Betty from MM 144 took this shot of us and sent it to me on Nebo!

FRIDAY

We left our anchorage and are headed through Pickwick Lock, then to Pickwick State Park just around the corner from the lock. We are planning to anchor right next to the park at Sulfur Creek for two nights.

We got right in the lock with 6 others and waited a bit for more. We ended up with 15 boats in the lock. Some had to raft with others.

Pickwick Lock

We end our day at Pickwick State Park. There is a marina here and right outside of the marina is a beautiful anchorage. We are anchored tucked in a cove. We are pretty much on the borders of Tennessee, Mississippi and Alabama.

Day 185-186 Green Turtle Bay—Paris Landing State Park—

Monday & Tuesday October 20 & 21, 2025

MONDAY

We pulled out of GTB with quite the flotilla! A good number of us were cruising toward Paris Landing, lured by their unbeatable diesel prices — and the fact that it’s a marina run by the Tennessee State Park system. That’s right, another state checked off the list!

As we made our way across the water, we glided past the hauntingly beautiful Cemetery Island — a mysterious little rise that only reveals itself when the lake drops to winter pool or hits a rare low. Right there in the middle of it all, a single weathered headstone stands, still holding its ground after all these years. We could just make it out through the binoculars, ghostly and solemn against the brush. I tried snapping a photo, but let’s just say the lake had other plans — the shot didn’t quite capture the moment.

https://www.fourriversexplorer.com/kentucky-lake-grave/

Hard to tell but if you look at the link above, that is what it looks like through the binoculars! Kind of creepy.

That evening, we were invited aboard Goldilocks for dinner, joined by two other Looper couples we hadn’t met before. The food was fantastic, the company even better, and the stories flowed as easily as the river. A perfect Looper evening!

TUESDAY

This morning, we decided a hike in the park was a must before we sketched off toward an anchorage farther down the river. The air was crisp and clean, sitting right at that perfect 60 degrees. The sun was shining, the wind was still, and the whole day had that quiet kind of promise. We followed a beautiful trail that wound its way through the woods and dipped along the river’s edge. The only thing missing was a splash of autumn color — the leaves hadn’t quite turned yet — but even so, it was a stunning walk. We ended up at 4.5 miles which was perfect. Just enough time left to make a quick bite before shoving off.

It’s another beautiful cool day but still a bit windy. We decided to not go too far today and found a small anchorage about 20 miles away—Little Crooked Creek. This gave us enough time to dig into the last cushion that needs to be recovered—the captains bench. Jeff took the seat apart since it’s 6 different pieces so I could see how to remake it.

Days 183 & 184–Green Turtle Bay Marina & Resort

Saturday & Sunday October 18-19, 2025

SATURDAY

Today was one of those classic “get-it-done” kind of days—catching up on leftover chores before the skies opened up and the next wave of Loopers cruised in, all on the hunt for a safe harbor ahead of the incoming storm.

In the afternoon we met up with Bonnie & Louis in the pool to cool off. We figured it’s the last pool day for a while since the incoming storm will bring in much needed cooler temps.

After all the new boats settled in and lines were tied off, many of usgathered for a lively round of docktails—lots of laughs, shared stories, and the easy camaraderie that comes with life on the Loop.

Loopers at Docktails
Greg giving the Looper Toast

Later on, we joined Greg, Deanna, and her mom for a laid-back evening at the Tiki Turtle, where live music set the tone and pizza hit the spot.

We made it back to the boat just in time—right as the skies unleashed their fury around 9pm. Heavy rain, rolling thunder, crackling lightning, and strong winds swept through, but thankfully, no hail or tornados touched down near us.

Mother Nature definitely put on a show—but we stayed safe, dry, and grateful for good timing and good company.

SUNDAY

We kicked off the day with bittersweet goodbyes to Greg and Deanna aboard Spirit of Adventure as they set out on their side trip to Nashville. We’ve really enjoyed getting to know them—great folks with great stories—and we’re hoping our wakes cross again somewhere down the Loop.

After that, I headed out with Bonnie from Goldilocks for a provisioning run, stocking up before tomorrow’s departure. Always more fun to shop with a buddy, especially one who knows their way around a galley.

As the sun started to dip, Bonnie and Louis joined us for appetizers aboard, and they introduced us to a game we’d never played before—Azul—but now absolutely love! It’s officially on our must-buy list. Lots of laughs, great conversation, and it felt so good to reconnect—it’s been since New York, after all!

Tomorrow, both our boats head out, continuing the journey down the Tennessee River. Onward we go—new waters, familiar friends, and whatever surprises the Loop has in store next❤️

Days 179-182–Sharps Bar to Paducah, KY to Green Turtle Bay, KY

Tuesday October 14 – Friday October 17, 2025

TUESDAY

Paducah Arrival: Quilts, Murals & Top Chef Cuisine

We cruised a quick 22 miles from Sharps Bar and pulled into the City of Paducah Marina. While the marina itself is simple—just a brand-new dock with fuel, water, and power—it’s in a fantastic location, just a short and easy walk to downtown.

Once we got settled, we set out on foot to explore. First stop: The National Quilt Museum. Yes, Jeff even came along—and he was surprisingly impressed! The craftsmanship and artistry in those quilts were truly something to see.

From there, we wandered through downtown Paducah, soaking in the charm of the historic district. As we made our way back to the marina, we came upon the floodwall murals—a fascinating outdoor gallery that tells the story of the town’s past. Each mural was beautifully done, like an open-air history museum. There was even an old train on display nearby, adding to the nostalgic vibe.

That evening, all six of us headed to dinner at Freight House, the incredible restaurant started by Chef Sara Bradley—yes, the same Sara who competed on Top Chef and is a James Beard Award nominee. The place was absolutely packed (thankfully we had reservations—made a couple of days ago!). The food, the drinks, the atmosphere—everything was spot-on. Huge thanks to our friend Alisa for the recommendation—she mentioned it back in early September when she visited us on the boat.

All in all, a fantastic stop in Paducah. Highly recommend this one!

WEDNESDAY

Morning Strolls and Dockside Delights

We kicked off the morning with a leisurely stroll through town, soaking in the crisp air and quiet charm of the early hours. Our first stop was the local bakery—impossible to resist with the scent of fresh bread wafting out the door. We picked up a warm loaf, a couple of cherry danishes, and treated ourselves to a proper breakfast.

Each of us ordered a croissant-style danish, baked to golden perfection and stuffed with a savory mix of fried egg, melted Gouda, and a generous sprinkle of crispy bacon. Absolutely divine—flaky, rich, and just the right kind of indulgent.

After breakfast, it was back to the boat for a round of chores. I got to work scrubbing the decks until they gleamed, while Jeff disappeared into the engine room, elbows-deep in maintenance. By mid-afternoon, more boats began pulling in, filling the marina with new neighbors and nautical chatter.

As the sun dipped lower, we gathered on the dock for “docktails”—a floating happy hour of sorts. Laughter echoed across the water as stories were swapped, drinks clinked, and the sky turned a painter’s palette of soft evening hues. A perfect end to a well-balanced day.

THURSDAY

Smooth Sailing to Green Turtle Bay

This morning, the three of us who’ve been cruising together set off early, aiming to reach Green Turtle Bay before the afternoon sun got too high. Our route included just one lock—Barkley Lock—a name that’s earned its reputation for long, grueling wait times. We’d heard plenty of horror stories from other boaters, so we braced ourselves for the worst.

But luck was on our side.

Thanks to the temporary reopening of Kentucky Lock for a brief five-day window, much of the commercial traffic diverted that way. With the big tows rerouted, Barkley was wide open for us pleasure craft. We cruised right in with no delay, and everything went smoothly. What a relief!

We pulled into Green Turtle Bay around 1:00 PM, got tied up and settled in. A bit of laundry, a few chores, and we were back in relaxed marina mode. Later that evening, we gathered with our buddy boats for one final evening together—sharing stories, laughs, and that familiar camaraderie that’s become part of the rhythm of this journey.

After tonight, we’ll each be charting our own course. Our friends are both heading to Nashville for side trips, though on different timelines. As for us, we’re continuing down the Tennessee River, aiming to make it home in time for the holidays.

Before we set off on the next stretch of our journey, we had one last stop to savor—dinner at the iconic Patti’s 1880 Settlement. It’s one of those legendary places you hear fellow travelers rave about, and now we know why. Patti’s did not disappoint!

True to tradition, the place was already dressed to the nines for Christmas—twinkling lights, garlands, and festive cheer in every corner. Each dining room had its own personality, uniquely decorated with a cozy, nostalgic charm that made you feel like you’d stepped into a holiday postcard. Stained glass windows cast a warm, colorful glow across the tables, adding to the magic. It was the perfect way to celebrate a smooth day on the water, good company, and the end of this leg of the trip.

FRIDAY

A Quiet Day Before the Storm

Today was all about keeping it simple. We picked up a few packages, tackled some boat upgrades, and enjoyed a leisurely stroll into town under yet another blanket of warm, golden autumn sun. To our surprise (and delight), we discovered the pool here is still open and ready for use—definitely planning to take advantage of that tomorrow!

The evening was quiet and just for us. We curled up on the bow, letting the soft breeze wash over us as the sky put on a spectacular show. The sunset painted the horizon in shades of peach, pink, and lavender before fading gently into dusk. It was one of those peaceful moments that feels suspended in time.

We’ve decided to extend our stay here, along with many others. There’s some serious weather on the way—forecast calls for heavy rain, strong winds, hail, and even a risk of tornadoes starting tomorrow night through Sunday. Staying put feels like the smart call.

As a silver lining, the delay gives us a chance to reconnect with our friends Bonnie and Louis from Goldilocks, who are wrapping up their Nashville side trip and heading back this way. Looking forward to catching up and waiting out the storm together.

Days 176-178 Hoppie’s-Kaskaskia Wall-River Diversion Channel-Sharps Bar

Saturday October 11–Monday October 13, 2025

SATURDAY-MONDAY

We’ve left Hoppies cruising roughly 36 miles downstream to spend the night tied up on the Kaskaskia Lock wall. Our little flotilla is still going strong — Jelly Bean and Spirit of Adventure are right alongside us. Millennial Falcon is with us too, though they opted to anchor out on the wide Mississippi for the night. The rest of us veered off the main channel and slipped up the quiet Kaskaskia River to settle in at the lock wall.

Once secured, we dropped the dinghies and set off to explore. We landed on a stretch of Mississippi shoreline, hoping to see what the river might offer up. I’m on the hunt for a particular piece of driftwood — something just right. I didn’t find the perfect one this time, but I did come away with a smaller, promising piece. The sand told its own story: tracks from bobcats, snake, large deer, and birds big and small etched across the banks like a living journal. The venomous snakes here are Cottonmouth and Timber Rattle Snake.

The afternoon was golden — warm, wild, and peaceful. As the sun began to dip, we gathered back at the lock wall for “locktails” — a proper toast to the day’s adventure. Great company, great stories, and that easy camaraderie that only comes from life on the water.

SUNDAY

Today’s leg was about 70 miles—and it started in a soft morning fog that quickly gave way to clear skies. With the current on our side, we made great time, flying downstream with ease.

It was a barge bonanza out there—we crossed paths with at least seven! Big ones, small ones, and everything in between. Each one required a radio call to find out which side they wanted us on. River manners, after all.

The river’s unusually low right now. Those normally submerged wing dams? Yeah, they’re now towering 8 to 10 feet above the waterline. They’re no longer hidden hazards but jagged reminders that the channel is narrower—and the current, swifter.

We wrapped up the day in a peaceful little anchorage called River Diversion Channel. Five boats ended up sharing the quiet space, and it felt like a cozy impromptu community. Greg and Deanna dropped by in their dinghy just before sunset, and we toasted the day’s journey together with a shared drink as the sky turned gold

MONDAY

Turning the Corner – Goodbye Mississippi, Hello Ohio!

Today was another 70-mile run as we pushed toward Cairo and made the big turn up the Ohio River. Before 9 a.m., we’d already met five different barges—talk about a busy morning! One of them was a monster—five wide and seven long. It was like navigating around a floating freight train.

Once we left the Mississippi and started heading upstream on the Ohio, our speedy days came to a screeching halt. Goodbye current boost… hello slow climb. 😅

Going through Cairo was a full-on industrial maze—work barges darting in every direction, towboats spinning massive loads like it was a dance floor. It was chaotic, gritty, and let’s be honest… kind of an eyesore. 🥹 But hey, it’s part of the journey.

About 15 miles up, we’d planned to anchor and wait to lock through in the morning—but luck was on our side! We slipped into the lock with hardly any wait. Smooth sailing (well… locking).

We ended the day anchored just off the channel at Sharps Bar. The river is wide and open here—calm, serene, and just what we needed after a hectic day. We took the dinghy over to Spirit of Adventure and shared a relaxing beverage before heading back for dinner aboard. The night was still, peaceful, and the stars were out in full.

Days 172-175 Grafton, IL to Hoppies Marina, MO

Wednesday October 8-Friday Oct 10, 2025

WEDNESDAY

Today was a smooth and leisurely run from Grafton to Alton. Once we got settled in, a few deliveries rolled in—though, of course, one package didn’t make it (😫, of course).

There’s a good-sized group of loopers here right now. Some are heading out tomorrow, others the next day, so coordination is key. Going through the locks on these rivers is a different ballgame—tows and barges get priority, which can throw off plans. It’s much easier (and honestly, more fun) when we move as a group.

Tonight, Jeff and I treated ourselves to dinner in town at Gentelin’s on Broadway—and wow, it was a standout! We started with beef and mushroom kabobs on top of a plate with a rich bleu cheese sauce—absolutely mouthwatering. For the main course, we shared tempura lobster served over creamy risotto, and it was every bit as decadent as it sounds.

But the real surprise? Dessert. We ordered something called Warm Gooey Butter Cake—topped with cashew Dutch crumb, caramel sauce, and vanilla bean ice cream. Neither of us had ever heard of it before, but we were so glad we gave it a try. Pure bliss in every bite.

THURSDAY

Today was chore day. Clean the boat, fix a few things, finally put our registration on the dinghy. Oh, and we named the dinghy! Thanks to Deanna from Spirit of Adventure for the idea!

Tonight, a group of us headed out to Fast Eddie’s, a legendary spot that’s been around since 1921. The place is massive, full of energy, and known for its live music every single night. The band tonight kept the vibe lively—great atmosphere, lots of fun.

The food hit the spot—classic, no-fuss fare like burgers, fries, chicken wings, and shrimp. Nothing fancy, just good eats with good company.

It was an early night for all of us, though. Most of the group is pulling out at sunrise tomorrow, so we wrapped things up and made our way back to the boats. Big day ahead—time to keep the loop rolling!

FRIDAY

We had an early start this morning—engines fired up and lines off by 6:45 AM. Six of us were traveling together to get through two locks: Sea U Later, Jelly Bean, Spirit of Adventure, Millennium Falcon, Serenity, and Trouvaille. A great little flotilla, all aiming to stay in sync through the day’s challenges.

The first lock was just half a mile away, but barge traffic had other plans. We ended up waiting until 8:00 AM to get through. From there, it was a 12-mile run to the second lock, where the waiting game resumed.

A special shoutout to a kind tow captain who tried to help us out—he even asked if we could lock through with him, but unfortunately, that’s against the rules. Not to be discouraged, he turned around and asked the lockmaster to get us in next—and they did! THANK YOU, Captain Good Karma! We finally cleared the second lock around 11:30 AM, ready to push on.

The rest of the ride took us right through downtown St. Louis, and of course, we had to grab some iconic shots in front of the Gateway Arch. Boats lined up, cameras clicking—it was one of those “pinch me” kind of moments.

Another leg of the Loop in the books—locks, teamwork, unexpected kindness, and a little postcard-worthy sightseeing to top it off.

We pulled into Hoppie’s Marina this afternoon, our stop for the night. Hoppie’s is more than just a marina—it’s a Mississippi River institution, dating all the way back to the 1930s. It’s stayed in the same family for generations, a rare kind of place where the history is as much a part of the dock as the ropes and cleats.

Because of its location and the ever-shifting flow of the river, Hoppie’s doesn’t have traditional docks. Instead, boats tie up to barges, which makes for a unique experience. At one time, they had quite a setup with multiple barges, but a few years ago, a series of wing dams installed by the Corps of Engineers changed the current’s flow. With no locks on this part of the Mississippi to regulate spring floods, several of their barges were swept away—and unfortunately, they haven’t been able to replace them.

Now, the marina is run by the daughter of the original owners. Both of her parents passed just last year, and the future of Hoppie’s remains uncertain. There’s a feeling of resilience and nostalgia in the air, knowing that this place has weathered so much change. Before we left, she gave us a briefing on the stretch ahead—from here to Turtle Bay. Water levels are incredibly low this year, and many usual anchorages are now unusable. The next leg to Paducah, KY will be long and possibly challenging.

In the afternoon, we stretched our legs and walked into the nearby town of Kimmswick with Greg and Deanna from Spirit of Adventure. It’s a charming little town with quaint shops and a welcoming vibe. Tonight, they were setting up for Food Truck Friday, but after so many meals out lately, we opted to have a quiet dinner aboard the boat.

A peaceful end to a day full of history, community, and that ever-present rhythm of river life.

Days 168-171 On our way to Grafton, IL

Saturday October 4 — Tuesday October 7, 2025

SATURDAY

Last night, two of the four boats in our group launched their dinghies and came over for a visit with those of us who stayed put. It turned into a lovely evening—cooler temperatures and a gentle breeze made it perfect for winding down and drifting off to sleep.

In the middle of the night, I woke up and decided to step out onto the back deck to take in the night. The sky was absolutely breathtaking—millions of stars scattered across a velvet-black sky. I could’ve stayed out there for hours just watching the universe quietly unfold above me.

This morning, we all pulled anchor and traveled together about 40 miles downriver to the LaGrange Lock—the final lock on the Illinois River. We had to wait about two and a half hours while a massive tow passed through ahead of us. These tows are serious business—this one was three barges wide and five or six long. Since the locks give priority to commercial traffic, pleasure boats like ours have to wait our turn. Still, it’s only the second time we’ve had a significant delay, so not too bad all things considered.

Once we finally locked through, we anchored just below the dam, front-row seats to watch more towboats maneuver through the lock. The next one came right after we got anchored so we watched. He had 3 very long barges. He was able to fit in two of them, then disconnected and moved over so his tow and the other barge fit. It took just over an hour to do this. The drop here right now is only 10’. It will likely take a bit longer to get out.

Check out these birds!

So far on the trip we have been through 80 locks! We’ve still got plenty more locks between here and Mobile Bay 🤪—but for now, it’s anchor down, cool breeze, and hoping for another peaceful night on the river.

SUNDAY

Willow Island Stopover

Today’s journey brought us to the peaceful anchorage at Willow Island. While Spirit of Adventure pushed on, Jelly Bean, Avontuur, and we decided to drop anchor and soak in the stillness of this beautiful spot.

The scenery was serene, but the trip down wasn’t without its hiccups—our port engine started acting up, surging and missing sporadically. We’ve made a few calls to see if someone can take a look before we tackle the long, service-free stretch of the Mississippi ahead. Being Sunday, we’ll have to wait until tomorrow to (hopefully) get some answers.

Despite the engine gremlins, today was a celebration—Jeff’s birthday! We marked the occasion with steaks on the grill, fresh asparagus, and a great bottle of wine. Not a bad way to end the day.

MONDAY

Another scorcher today! Jelly Bean headed out early toward Grafton—they cruise a bit slower, so they usually get a head start. We set off with Avontuur, aiming for a breakfast stop at Mel’s River Dock Restaurant. From the outside, it looks pretty modest, but I was surprised by how spacious it is inside. The food hit the spot, and yes—they had homemade pies. Whole pies, slices, you name it. They looked really good… but somehow, we all stayed strong and passed. (Barely.)

That’s the tricky thing about a trip like this—you always feel like you’re on vacation. So many new places to try, but not quite enough time (or space) for proper workouts. Oy!

We cruised on to Grafton next. We are now at the convergence of the Illinois and the Mississippi Rivers. Naturally, the port engine decided to behave perfectly all day—no missing, no surging, just smooth sailing. Typical.

We pulled into the marina around 2 p.m. Jelly Bean is just down the dock, but Avontuur had to divert to a nearby marina for some planned service work. We tried to line up someone to look at our engine, but no luck—everyone’s booked solid for the next two weeks. So we grabbed the courtesy car for a quick supply run. Jeff picked up some fuel injector cleaner, fingers crossed that it does the trick.

Here’s a fun surprise: the marina has a pool, and—miracle of miracles—they hadn’t drained it yet! So we threw on our suits and jumped in. Was the water freezing? Absolutely. Did it feel amazing anyway? 100%.

Dinner was at the Grafton Pub—tonight’s special was a cheeseburger and fries for just $7. Can’t beat that. We sat outside on the deck, watching the sun dip over the river and marina. A beautiful evening to wrap up a hot, busy, slightly unpredictable day.

TUESDAY

What a difference a night makes! After a stretch of sweltering days, a front rolled in and brought the sweet gift of cooler weather—and with it, the best night’s sleep we’ve had in a while. Today’s high? A predicted glorious 76 instead of 90. Yes, please!

This morning, we teamed up with Rob and Chellie for the Grafton Sky Tour—a scenic ski-lift-style ride that whisks you up the hill with a mix of open chairs and enclosed gondolas. At the top: a winery, a resort, and some pretty breathtaking views. The original plan was for the girls to chill on the deck while the guys braved the alpine slide. But we had so much fun watching them zip down the hill (and maybe laughing a little too hard), we never actually made it to the deck until they were done!

Jeff’s Alpine Slide Ride!

This is so funny!

Backstory to the video:

That’s Rob from Jelly Bean taking his turn on the slide — but the real fun started just before. Earlier, we watched a worker take a ride to test it out, and Rob couldn’t resist shouting, “Hey, the track is broken halfway down!” 😂 Turns out, the girl running the chairlift thought that was hilarious… because the guy riding? Brand new on the job.

Fast forward to Rob’s turn — and now she gets the last laugh. Right as he starts down, she yells back his own line: “Hey, the track is broken halfway down!” The scream you hear? That’s Rob playing like he’s scared. We were all in stitches!

—————————————————

Lunch at the hilltop restaurant was fantastic, and the view—despite the overcast skies—was still stunning. With the sun hiding, it got a bit chilly, so we headed back to the boats for a lazy afternoon of warming up and relaxing. PS: It never made it to 76 degrees

Dinner was back at the ever-reliable Grafton Pub, where Taco Tuesday was in full swing—possibly doubling as a National Taco Day party. Live music, good company, and tacos? Count us in. I had a catfish taco and a beef taco (both excellent), paired with some icy margaritas. We joined Rob and Chellie, and the vibe was just pure fun.

And to top it all off? I got to hop up on stage and sing before the night was over. Definitely one for the books!

Days 162-167

Sunday September 28-Friday Oct 3, 2026

SUNDAY

We said our goodbyes to Trisha this morning as her friend picked her up at the Joliet wall. It was a decent spot for the night—except for the constant bridge drama. Every time they raised the bridge for a tow, it let out a loud, mournful wail, followed by the unmistakable rumble of machinery. Same deal when it came back down. Let’s just say it wasn’t exactly a lullaby. Sleep? Not so much.

Tonight, though, we’re anchoring—and what a difference that makes.

Our cruise to Sugar Island was smooth and easy—nothing too exciting, just the way we like it sometimes. We went through two locks, rafting up with a fellow Looper in one. It was blazing hot for late September—87 degrees! By the time we reached our anchorage, we were more than ready for a break.

And what a spot we found.

Tucked away in a quiet corner, we had the place entirely to ourselves. The water was calm, the air was still, and the world felt miles away. Jeff took the plunge—literally—cooling off with a swim. I opted for our outdoor handheld shower on the swim platform. Hot water was available… but absolutely unnecessary.

Sea U Later Just out of the lock.

The evening was pure bliss. We both slept like logs, finally getting the rest we missed the two nights before.

MONDAY

Another scorcher today—temps pushing 90 😳. We said goodbye to our peaceful anchorage and made our way to the charming riverside town of Ottawa, IL. Just one lock on the way, and lucky for us, no waiting. We tied up at the free wall alongside another Looper boat we hadn’t crossed paths with before: Spirit of Adventure, captained by Greg and Deanna, who started their Loop from Tampa.

Shortly after we tied off, a solo Looper we’d locked through with rafted to our boat just long enough to grab some lunch in town before continuing on his way.

We had different plans—namely, a bit of local history—so we invited Greg and Deanna to join us for a tour of the Reddick Mansion. This beautifully restored home, full of character and rich stories, was well worth the visit.

Just across the street is the historic Washington Square, the site of the very first Lincoln-Douglas debate in 1858. Over 14,000 people gathered here to listen. Though Lincoln lost the Senate race, those debates helped propel him to the national stage—and ultimately to the presidency. The bronze statues of the two men, completed in 2002, stand as a powerful tribute: Lincoln at 11 feet tall, Douglas at 9.

The town itself is full of surprises—colorful murals scattered throughout, each depicting a slice of its rich history.

We capped off our afternoon with a late lunch at The Lone Buffalo by Tangled Roots Brewing Company (yes, quite the name!). The food? Fantastic. The drinks? Even better. A perfect break from the heat.

As the evening settled in, I spent time on the bow, soaking in one of those sweet, simple moments: a young dad fishing with his two little ones along the wall. The boy was about three, the girl not quite two. She kept waving at me, then giggling and doing it again—and of course, I’d wave back every time. Absolutely adorable. Watching them made me miss our grandkids even more… but November isn’t too far away now. It’ll be here before we know it.

TUESDAY

Jeff strolled up to the town bakery on a little recon mission—and came back a hero with four sweet treats in hand! He scored a custard-filled Bismarck for himself and a luscious custard eclair just for me 😋. Pure deliciousness!

After saying goodbye to our wall in Ottawa, we cruised out toward a quiet anchorage a little over 30 miles away. Just one lock today—smooth sailing with zero barge traffic in the lock. We even rafted up in the lock with a fellow Looper from Quebec, Ontario. Always fun crossing paths with new friends on the water.

Tonight’s anchorage? Absolutely peaceful. Serene. One of those beautiful spots that reminds you why you’re out here in the first place.

WEDNESDAY

Day’s Journey: On to Peoria!

Today’s leg of the Loop brought us 36 more miles downriver, rolling us into Peoria by early afternoon. But before we hit the city, we made a pit stop in a little place called Rome—specifically, Hamm’s Holiday Harbor—for diesel.

Now, let me paint the picture: this wasn’t your average marina fuel dock. No, this place had serious “towboat graveyard” vibes. We tied up next to an old, rusty towboat that looked like it had seen better decades, and flagged down the lone guy on duty to ask for about 30 gallons in each tank.

He nodded, disappeared somewhere out of sight with the world’s longest fuel hose, and hollered back when he was ready. We opened up, but instead of a satisfying whoosh, we got… a dribble. A weak, sad trickle. Barely a gallon, then—nothing.

We started yelling back that nothing was coming through, but he couldn’t hear us over the distance (or the ghosts of towboats past). Suddenly, he shouts, “25… 30!” Like it was all going fine. Jeff hustled over to check—and sure enough, the hose had come apart. Diesel was now pooling in the top of the barge like a mini oil slick.

Enter Guy #2, who jumped in to help. Together, they got the hose reconnected, and we finally got our fuel. The first guy took the hit for the spill—turns out someone didn’t secure the hose properly.

Yowza. Not exactly a “holiday” at Hamm’s, but hey—we’re fueled, floating, and forging ahead.

We finally make it to docking at the Peoria Boat Club for a two-night stay — time to roll up our sleeves for some long-overdue chores and maintenance.

Arriving around 2 PM gave us just enough time to knock out a few loads of laundry, tackle a few boat projects, and even swap stories with a couple of fellow Loopers docked nearby. It’s always great running into others on the same adventure.

THURSDAY

Peoria Pit Stop – Day Two

We knocked out a solid round of chores today — swapped out the fuel filters, tackled a quick Isinglass sewing fix, and got another load of laundry spinning. The to-do list is shrinking, slowly but surely!

With the essentials handled, we stretched our legs with a walk into town for some lunch and a visit to the Caterpillar Visitor Center. Peoria has been Caterpillar’s home base for over 100 years, and the museum doesn’t disappoint. They’ve got full-size simulators for a bunch of their heavy machinery — and yes, we gave them a go.

Let’s just say… I won’t be operating an excavator anytime soon 😄. Jeff, on the other hand, might have missed his calling!

Once we arrived back to the marina, I finished up my small chores and poor Jeff, who was sooo hot, washed the boat so we can get on our way in the morning! Thanks Dear!

FRIDAY

On the Move Again — And What a Day!

We’re officially back on the water, making our way toward Grafton, then Alton over the next few days. We’ll be anchoring out for the next three nights — and whew, it is hot. Another scorcher in the 90s today! Thank goodness for those cooler nights.

What started as a seemingly uneventful travel day turned into anything but.

We cruised right into our only lock of the day without much of a wait (a small miracle!), locking through with four other boats — including two fellow Loopers we met back at the Joliet wall: Jelly Bean and Avontuur. It was a quick drop, and we got to free-float in the middle — a first for us! Pretty cool experience.

Then — yank! Our starboard engine suddenly shut down. At first, we thought we’d run aground, but our depth read a comfortable 7 feet. Turns out, we’d snagged a steel cable running from the dredge to the shore — totally invisible in the water.

The dredge crew jumped into action right away. After some effort trying to free it from the deck after cutting it by our boat, the captain himself ended up jumping into the water to work it loose by hand. Talk about service. We were half-holding our breath, worried about prop damage — but once freed, the engine started right up with no vibration or issues. Lucky break!

The main channel was eventually cleared, and the rest of the boats were able to pass through — though our delay was about an hour, the dredge crews’ was likely longer. Judging by how quickly and calmly the crew handled it, this definitely wasn’t their first rodeo.

Just another reminder that even a “routine” day on the Loop can take some unexpected turns!

Now we are anchored behind Quiver Island with 3 other loopers for the night.

Days 158-162 Milwaukee to Kenosha to Chicago to Joliet, IL

Tuesday September 24-Saturday September 28, 2026

TUESDAY

Today, Trisha (Jeff’s Sister) arrived in Milwaukee! She’ll be staying with us until Sunday before heading out from Joliet, IL. Once she got settled in, we had some lunch on the back deck and spent the afternoon catching up.

Later, we headed out for a pre-dinner cocktail at the Safe House, a truly unforgettable spot tucked behind a red door in an alley near the Milwaukee River. Since 1966, this hidden gem has been delighting guests with its top-secret vibes. You need a password to get in (which adds to the fun), and from there, you’re led through a series of secret doors into a world of espionage.

Inside, the atmosphere is electric—decked out in authentic spy gear, James Bond memorabilia, and clever surprises around every corner. We only stopped in for a drink, but the cocktails were unique and delicious. They seated us in a cozy private booth at the top of a set of stairs. Just before we left, our waitress asked if we wanted to see something cool. Naturally, we said yes. She closed the doors to our booth, pushed a hidden button—and suddenly, the whole booth turned 180 degrees! It was like something straight out of a movie.

From there, we walked over to Mader’s, a classic German restaurant that’s been in business since 1902. The ambiance was old-world charming, and the food absolutely lived up to the hype. We shared a variety of delicious dishes and left feeling very satisfied—and very full.

A truly fine evening to kick off the week with Trisha!

More pics from our walk:

WEDNESDAY

Milwaukee River Adventure – A Dinghy Tale

The winds and swell on the lake kept us from going anywhere today, so we opted for a little exploration closer to home. We took the dinghy up the Milwaukee River — such a great way to take in the downtown skyline. The mix of modern and historic architecture from the water is truly something else.

After soaking in the sights, we turned around and headed up the Kinnickinnic River in search of a spot called Barnacle Buds. A guy we met at the dock a few days ago recommended it — we call him “Drunk Gary.” Nice guy, but, well… the name says it all. 😄

We managed to find the place, but docking turned out to be a challenge. Despite plenty of docks and slips (most of them empty), signs everywhere screamed NO DOCKING. Apparently, all the dockage is privately owned, and they don’t allow tie-ups for the restaurant. There was a wall a little ways back we could have used — if it weren’t so high it would’ve required climbing gear.

In the end, we took a chance, pulled up, tied off briefly, and went for it. Worth it! The place had great fresh fish and chips, plus a full menu. A very fun, laid-back spot.

The ride back, though… that’s where things got spicy.

We knew we’d be heading into the wind once we left the river and hit the harbor — but what we didn’t plan for was running out of gas. Yep. Turns out 1/3 of a gallon doesn’t take you as far as you’d hope. Pro tip: bring the spare can. 🙃

Luckily, we sputtered out right by a small community park with a dock. Perfect timing. We tied up, and Jeff hoofed it to a gas station about half a mile away. He came back not just with gas, but with a brand-new spare can. Legend.

Back on the water, we hit some pretty decent chop even in the protected harbor. Let’s just say a few of us got more wet than others — and we laughed about it all the way back. We told Trisha we wanted her visit to be memorable. Mission accomplished!

THURSDAY

Into the Big Wide Open!

We started our morning with coffee, showers, and French toast — a relaxing start while we waited for the waves and swells to continue dying down. Timing our departure was key. Around 10 a.m., we headed out for Kenosha, just over 30 miles away.

The waves were still a bit bigger than we’d have liked, but fortunately they were coming from behind. To get on course, we had to head out a bit before turning south, which put the waves on our beam for a while — never anyone’s favorite. Still, we made it to Kenosha with just enough time to visit the Civil War Museum. As most of you know, Jeff loves museums like that, so it was a great stop!

Later, we enjoyed docktails aboard our boat with fellow Loopers from Double Trouble III. Trisha got a great introduction to the kinds of conversations Loopers share when they get together. Fun was had by all!

FRIDAY

From tiny Franks Diner to Big Downtown Chicago!

We were up early to enjoy breakfast at Franks Diner, the oldest continually owned diner in the United States. They serve up hearty breakfasts, classic lunches — and a little bit of sass. Most people love the atmosphere, though a few might get offended. Either way, it’s a fun place with great food!

The diner’s story began in 1926, when Anthony Franks read a newspaper article about lunch car-style diners and decided to order one. Franks Diner was built by the Jerry O’Mahony Company, one of America’s original diner manufacturers based in Bayonne, New Jersey. After a short ride by rail — followed by a long haul pulled by six horses — the lunch car rolled into downtown Kenosha, Wisconsin.

Interestingly, the city delayed its opening for a year, claiming there were already too many Greek-owned restaurants at the time.

September of next year they will celebrate 100 years of being in service!

Cruising into Chicago: Calm Seas, City Lights & A Side of Chaos

We left the marina behind and set out on our journey to Chicago under clear skies and a gentle breeze. The water was calm, the sun was warm, and the day couldn’t have been more perfect for a cruise. After a smooth 5+ hour ride, we pulled into DuSable Harbor Marina right around 3 PM — the skyline rising ahead of us like something out of a postcard.

To kick off an early celebration for Jeff’s upcoming birthday (just over a week away!), we headed out for dinner. The unanimous choice? Giordano’s, of course! We shared a plate of bruschetta and dove into a classic deep-dish pizza — gooey, cheesy, absolutely decadent. Every bite was better than the last.

Back at the boat, we wrapped up the evening on a high note. The city lights shimmered around us as we lounged out back, sipping espresso martinis and soaking in the view.

It was one of those moments where everything just clicks — peaceful, happy, and content.

…Until it wasn’t.

Just as we were drifting off to sleep, we were jolted awake by what sounded like a full-blown concert — inside our boat. Turns out the neighbors had returned from a joyride and decided to keep the party going… loudly. The music was blaring so hard, we could barely hear ourselves think. We peeked out to see 3 or 4 guys on the boat, and the poor captain was shouting instructions on how to tie up — not that anyone could hear him over the pounding bass.

I finally had enough, popped up through the hatch, and yelled at them to turn it down. To their credit, they did — and even managed a slurred apology. But wow… stupid drunk people.

Still, despite the late-night antics, it was an unforgettable day. Beautiful weather, amazing food, city views, and a boatload of memories — loud neighbors and all.

SATURDAY

A Day on the River: From Chicago’s Buzz to Joliet’s Embrace

Today was the day Trisha had been waiting for — and it couldn’t have been more beautiful. The sun was shining, the air was warm, and the city of Chicago was alive with the vibrant energy of early fall. We had a bit of a slow start, needing to wait until around noon to begin our journey down the Chicago River. A rowing regatta had temporarily closed off a section, so we relaxed and soaked in the anticipation.

Once we were finally cleared to go, we found ourselves in the heart of the action. The river was buzzing — tour boats gliding past, café patios packed with people, laughter echoing off the buildings, and cameras flashing from every angle. It felt like we had front-row seats to the city’s own little celebration of autumn. Trisha was grinning from ear to ear.

But like all good things, the downtown magic eventually faded behind us. As we made our way further south, the scenery shifted dramatically — trading in glass towers and riverwalks for steel, smokestacks, and gritty industrial zones. The pace slowed, the waterway thickened with working traffic, and the glamour of the city gave way to the muscle of the river.

We hit a significant delay waiting for a tow and his string of barges so we could share a lock. It took a while — longer than we would’ve liked — but that’s part of the rhythm of river travel: hurry up and wait.

By the time we reached the Joliet wall, the sun had dipped below the horizon. It was much later than our usual arrival window, and we were tired and ready to tie up. But what a welcome we received! Three fellow Looper boats (Jelly Bean, Avontuure and the 3rd one hadn’t been named yet) were already there, ready to catch lines, big smiles, and happy greetings — the kind of camaraderie that makes this journey so special.

Dinner was a late one aboard the boat, nothing fancy, but the kind of meal that hits just right after a long day. Tired, full, and grateful, we ended the night reflecting on a day filled with contrasts — the energy of the city, the stillness of delays, and the quiet joy of being welcomed at the end.

Days 154-157 Milwaukee Stopover – A Welcome Break

Friday September 19-Monday September 22, 2025

We arrived in Milwaukee after leaving Port Washington and have spent the past four days docked at McKinley Marina.

It’s been a productive and enjoyable stop — we’ve done quite a bit of walking around the city, visited the Milwaukee Art Museum, stocked up on provisions, tackled laundry, and checked off a number of other chores that needed doing.

To our surprise, Friday night brought a fireworks show — a fun and unexpected treat! The weather over the past few days has run the gamut: rain, wind, heat, and humidity. Fortunately, Saturday and Sunday weren’t great travel days on the lake, so it worked out well to stay put in Milwaukee. The marina and city gave us a comfortable and interesting place to ride out the weather.

Looking ahead, Jeff’s sister is joining us on Tuesday for the trip down through Chicago. We are looking forward to her joining us on part of our adventure. The forecast looks promising, so we’re hopeful for smooth sailing in the days ahead.

Day 153 Manitowoc to Port Washington

Thursday September 18, 2025

Today’s journey was about 45 miles and took us six hours on the water. The lake was calm, with just a gentle breeze—a perfect day for cruising. That is… until the black flies showed up. 😡

But then, something adorable happened that totally made up for it.

As Jeff went full maniac with the fly swatter (he takes his bug battles very seriously), a young sparrow flew in—clearly attracted by the sudden buffet of dead insects. He landed on the top of the boat and began snacking away on the gnats and flies.

Inspired, I picked up one of the flies Jeff had swatted and held it out. The little bird fluttered right over and ate it from my hand! I was so thrilled, I had to do it again… and again! In total, he ate about five flies plus whatever other little critters he found. He rode with us for about 45 minutes before flying off on his next adventure. Absolutely made my day. 😊

Sorry this one is sideways🥹

Once we arrived in Port Washington, we dropped anchor and took the dinghy ashore to explore. The downtown area is super cute! We stopped by a local brewery for a break and some scenery, and Jeff was happy to find a solid lineup of craft beers. He tried a Salted Caramel Porter—surprisingly smooth and not too sweet. Win!

Side Story!

Back in Kewaunee yesterday, we stopped at Tug Ludington, where I noticed a group of seven bicyclists—one stood out in a ridiculously bright jersey. Later that same day, in Manitowoc (25 miles south), we were walking back from the Maritime Museum when—zoom!—that same bright yellow jersey flashed past us, followed by the rest of the group. I told Jeff, “Hey! That’s the crew from the tug!”

Fast forward to today at the brewery in Port Washington—44 miles further south—who pulls up? Yep, those same cyclists! We struck up a conversation and had such a fun time. They were curious about our boat trip, so I shared the blog with them and snapped a group photo (5 out of 7 were there) for the next post. They’re headed to Milwaukee next, same as us—so who knows, we may cross paths again!

The guy in the middle was the one I kept recognizing!

Before heading back to the boat, we stopped at the local meat market for some jerky and beef sticks (necessities, obviously). After a bit of rest onboard, we decided to return to town for dinner and chose Twisted Willow. The food was fantastic—even if the waitress was less than attentive. A bit of a bummer, but the meal itself made up for it.

Day 151-152 Sturgeon Bay-Manitowoc

Tuesday September 16-Wednesday September 17, 2025

TUESDAY

We had a short 20-mile jaunt from Fish Creek down to Sturgeon Bay and are now docked at a marina called CenterPointe. It’s a wonderful facility—equipped with a lounge, full kitchen, grills, outdoor fireplace, showers, laundry for just a dollar, and even a pool!

Unfortunately, they drained the pool last week—not realizing it would hit 80°F today ☺️. Still, it’s beautiful here, with new docks and plenty of flowers.

We took care of some much-needed provisioning and, sadly, will need to head out in the morning. Jeff was able to visit the Maritime Museum, which he said was pretty good.

We wrapped up the day with a peaceful night at the dock and brats on the grill.

WEDNESDAY

We had an early start to our day. We are stopping in Kewaunee to take a look at the Ludington Tug, then move on to Manitowoc where we will spend the night. All in, it’s about 45 miles.

We stopped along the wall in Kewaunee to take a tour of the historical Tug Ludington.

The Tug Ludington: A Storied Veteran of Sea and Steel

Originally launched in 1943 as the Major Wilbur F. Browder, the vessel now proudly known as the Tug Ludington began its life at the Jakobson Shipyard in Oyster Bay, New York. Built during the height of World War II, the tug was designated LT-4 by the U.S. Army and armed with twin .50 caliber machine guns—ready for action in one of the most pivotal moments in modern history.

This tough little tug earned its stripes during the D-Day invasion of Normandy, bravely towing ammunition barges across the English Channel under the threat of enemy fire. After helping secure the beachhead, it continued its mission in Cherbourg, France, aiding crucial harbor operations before heading to Plymouth, England, where it served until the end of the war.

When peace returned, the LT-4 was reassigned to the U.S. Army Transportation Corps, operating out of Norfolk, Virginia, where it performed essential towing missions along the Eastern Seaboard.

In 1947, the tug found a new home and a new name. Transferred to Kewaunee, Wisconsin by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, it was rechristened the Tug Ludington. There, it took on a new mission: helping build and maintain harbors throughout the Great Lakes region. Over the years, it has hauled an astonishing 1 million tons of cargo—a testament to its strength, resilience, and utility.

Today, the Tug Ludington is more than just a boat; it’s a floating symbol of American history and ingenuity. And the town of Kewaunee is proud to be the keeper of its remarkable legacy.

While chatting with a local town advocate during our visit, she shared a fascinating bit of history. Originally from Chicago, she told me that the lighthouse tower in Kewaunee was once struck by a car ferry back in the 1930s, causing damage to one of its legs. The damaged section was removed for repairs, and once it was restored, it was sent to Chicago. In 1938, it found a new home as the Chicago Harbor Southeast Guidewall Lighthouse. I’ll definitely keep an eye out for it next week when we pass through—what an interesting story!

Just as we were getting close to Manitowoc, here comes the SS Badgerthe historic, coal-fired steam engine car ferry that sails across Lake Michigan between Manitowoc, Wisconsin, and Ludington, Michigan. It is the last coal-powered, passenger-carrying steamer in the United States! It’s huge-410 feet long.

Side note: when the ferry was docking in Ludington, it collided with its sister ship-SS Spartan. No passengers were hurt. It did some damage to its stern sea gate but marine engineers said it will be ready for Thursday morning

We rolled into Manitowoc for the night, with Jeff especially excited to visit the Wisconsin Maritime Museum and tour the legendary USS Cobia submarine. But to our surprise (and a bit of disappointment), we found out the sub had been moved to Sturgeon Bay just a couple of weeks ago for refurbishment—it won’t be back until mid-October. Oh well! Sometimes travel throws a curveball, and you’ve just got to roll with it.

Days 149–150 Nicolet Bay and Fish Creek

Sunday & Monday September 14 & 15, 2025

SUNDAY—What a Day!

Today was one for the books! We started off slow and easy with a leisurely breakfast aboard the boat, savoring the calm before setting off in our dinghy for shore. We’re anchored in the serene bay of Peninsula State Park, just across from the charming town of Ephraim, WI — a picture-perfect spot to launch a day of adventure.

Our mission? Tackle the more demanding hike: Eagle Trail to Eagle Tower. And wow — what a hike! Twisting trails, rugged terrain, and breathtaking cliffside paths kept us on our toes (literally — eyes down most of the time to watch our footing). It was the kind of trail that makes you feel like you’ve earned every single view.

And the views? Unreal. The towering limestone cliffs, lush greenery, and dramatic lake vistas were absolutely awe-inspiring. When we finally climbed Eagle Tower, we were treated to panoramic views that made every step worth it. The crisp air, the shimmering water in the distance — pure magic.

Despite the number of people in the park, the trail still felt like our own little escape. We considered taking the road back, but in the spirit of adventure, we chose the trail again — a solid 5 miles total that took a couple of hours, with plenty of stops to soak in the surroundings.

Back on the boat, we didn’t hesitate to jump into the lake — yes, even at a brisk 68 degrees! That icy plunge was as shocking as it was exhilarating. The perfect reward after a long, active day.

We spent the rest of the afternoon in full relaxation mode: reading, lounging, and letting time drift by. And just when we thought the day couldn’t get any better, we stepped outside before bed and caught a dazzling display of the Northern Lights dancing across the sky.

Now that’s what you call a great day.

MONDAY—Fish Creek Fun!

Another slow and easy morning greeted us—sunny skies, crisp air, and that perfect September stillness. We made the short hop of just 4 miles and dropped anchor in the tranquil harbor of the charming Village of Fish Creek. Not much traffic around here on a mid-September Monday, just peaceful water and the occasional gull gliding by.

Once settled, we spent some time mapping out the next leg of our trip. We’re aiming to be in Milwaukee by the 22nd or 23rd to pick up Trisha (Jeff’s sister), but with some easterly winds forecasted, we may have to adjust our sails—literally. A few travel days might be a no-go, so some flexibility will be key.

After anchoring, we hopped in the dinghy and headed ashore for a bit of exploring and light shopping. Fish Creek never disappoints with its collection of unique, one-of-a-kind shops. Unfortunately, a couple of the ones I was really looking forward to were closed—seasonal hour changes, and they only updated the signs on their doors 😞. Small-town charm, right?

Back on the boat, we had a couple hours to relax—just soaking up the sun and the serenity before dinner.

Tonight’s pick: Loft—a relatively new spot (just four years old) that’s already built a stellar reputation. It’s an open-air restaurant, equipped with Isinglass curtains and overhead heat lamps for cooler nights—but tonight, none of that was needed. And the experience did not disappoint. We shared an order of crispy Wisconsin cheese curds (because, obviously), a Caesar salad, and rich mushroom ravioli topped with Parmesan-crusted chicken. Every bite was fresh, flavorful, and absolutely worth the hype.

Our anchorage for the night!

Day 148

SATURDAY September 13, 2025

A Day in Door County: Goats on the Roof, Pancakes on the Plate, and Paint on the Walls

This morning, we laced up our walking shoes and strolled a mile into the charming town of Sister Bay for breakfast at the iconic Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant—a place we’d heard about many times but never experienced ourselves. Despite visiting Sister Bay before, this was our first time dining under the watchful gaze of… roof goats. Yes, goats! Grazing casually atop the restaurant’s sod-covered roof, they’re both adorable and completely on-brand for this quirky, beloved eatery.

Al Johnson’s is known far and wide for their legendary Swedish pancakes and perfectly seasoned Swedish meatballs, and with over 75 years in business, it’s no wonder the place is always packed. This morning was no different—the wait time was 45 minutes. Thankfully, their cozy Butik gave us plenty to browse while we waited, filled with charming Swedish gifts and keepsakes.

We decided to share an order of pancakes and a side of meatballs. Both were delicious, but the pancakes? Absolute winners—light, buttery, and just the right amount of sweet. By the time we left, the wait had grown to an hour and a half! 😳

On our walk back to the boat, we couldn’t resist ducking into a few of the local shops before setting off for our next destination: the peaceful village of Ephraim.

The day couldn’t have been more perfect—clear blue skies, a gentle breeze, and a crisp 70 degrees. Our first stop was Anderson Dock, a spot rich with history and charm. Originally built in the mid-1800s by the Anderson Brothers, the dock and adjoining warehouse once served as a hub for goods and trade. Over time, sailors began painting the names of their ships and the dates they docked—starting a vibrant, evolving tradition that continues to this day.

In 1949, the Ephraim Historical Foundation took over stewardship of the dock, and now anyone who visits is welcome to leave their mark. Engagements, baby announcements, weddings—even senior photos are taken here. Today, we watched as someone posed for senior pictures in front of the colorful patchwork of names and dates.

Naturally, we searched for our own painting, which we created about 7–8 years ago. Sadly, we couldn’t find it. 😔 Turns out, the building is repainted every couple of years to make room for new visitors, so our mark had been painted over. Still, I have a photo from back then—and the memory is what truly lasts. We hadn’t brought paint or a brush this time, but we made a pact to return and add our names once again.

From there, we motored across the bay to a peaceful anchorage near Peninsula State Park, one of the prettiest spots in Door County. Eager to stretch our legs, we took a gentle hike through the heart of the peninsula to the lighthouse, saving the more strenuous trails for tomorrow.

A full day of sunshine, stories, and Swedish pancakes—and pork chops on the grill for dinner! What more could you ask for?

Day 147-Fayette, MI to Sister Bay, WI

Friday September 12, 2025

September 12 – Fog, Repairs, and a Little Relief in Sister Bay

We were up at the crack of dawn to head toward Sister Bay, WI, hoping 🤞🏻 to finally get our generator repaired. There was a fog advisory, but it looked like most of it was to the west and north of us—so we decided to go for it.

Looking back as we left

The visibility wasn’t terrible at first, but at times it dropped down to just two blocks (not a fan of that!). Thankfully we had radar and AIS, but still 😳—fog always raises the tension a bit.

Just after I took the two photos above, the fog began to lift, slowly revealing calm waters ahead. The ride today was just under 37 miles and took about 5 hours, mostly because of the fog. Smooth seas the whole way, at least.

We’re now settled into Yacht Works Marina in Sister Bay, where we’ve officially traveled 2,489 miles—just shy of the halfway point on our journey.

We met Sam, the Mechanic Supervisor, who had the part he thought we needed. After a bit of work (and some wrangling by him and Captain Jeff to get the old part off), they installed the new one. Turned out it was the raw water intake impeller.

Then came the real test: start the generator and see if it stays running.

Holding our breath… fingers crossed… YES! That fixed it! Whew 😅.

Sister Bay is a charming little town in Door County, WI. We’re about a mile out at this marina, but tomorrow we plan to walk into town and have breakfast at Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant. Can’t wait!

Days 145 & 146

Wednesday & Thursday

Sept 10 & 11, 2025

WEDNESDAY—Smooth Crossing & a Hidden Gem

We woke early, coffee in hand, as the peaceful morning hum of boats firing up filled the air. Engines warming, seagulls calling, and the water glistening — it was the perfect setup for our Lake Michigan crossing. Most boats around us were headed to Sturgeon Bay, but we charted a course a bit farther north, aiming for Fayette Historic State Park — a spot we were excited to explore and anchor out.

The lake greeted us gently at first with 1-footers, then eased into 2-footers — nothing we couldn’t handle. About mid-crossing, things picked up to 3–4 footers for a stretch. It was bumpy but still comfortable — a welcome change from the “washing machine” chaos we’d endured the other day. We throttled up for 10–12 miles to smooth it out, then settled back down once the waves calmed. From there, the swells turned easy and rolling, and we cruised into calmer waters.

The full run was 62.5 miles and took about 7 hours. As we pulled into Fayette, we were met with stillness — a quiet anchorage, brand-new docks (with electric and water!), and not another boat in sight. Total solitude.

Once we were settled, we dinghied to shore and set off to explore this fascinating ghost town from the 1800s. Founded in 1867 to manufacture pig iron, the town boomed briefly, then faded away by 1891. Walking among the restored buildings, you could feel the history — the ambition, the industry, and the eerie quiet left behind. It was one of those places that feels untouched by time.

https://www.michigan.gov/mhc/museums/fayette

We covered most of the site but saved a few buildings — and the trails — for tomorrow. Back on the boat, we fired up the generator to cook dinner… but it wouldn’t stay running longer than 30 seconds. Captain Jeff dove into the engine room and went through all the usual checks, but no luck. With no power to cook, we reluctantly pulled up anchor and tied off at the dock instead. Thankfully, the power pedestals were still on — the visitor center was closed for carpet installation (of all things), so once again, we had the place to ourselves. Not the night we planned, but all things considered, not a bad place to end the day.

THURSDAY—Ghost Towns & Trail Time

We started the day with a bit of detective work, calling around to marinas along our route to get the generator looked at. Lucky break: we found a mechanic in Sister Bay, WI (Door County — for those not in the know), who not only thinks he knows the issue but has the part in stock. So, slight change of plans: we’ll head there tomorrow and skip our intended stop at Washington Island.

With that squared away, we headed back out to finish exploring Fayette. The remaining buildings were just as fascinating, and afterward we hit the trails. First, we walked the rock-strewn shoreline, then wandered through the quiet campground — over 60 campsites tucked into the woods.

After lunch, we took off for the trail to “the point,” which turned out to be a highlight of the trip — a peaceful, scenic hike beneath a tall, ancient – some up to 1400 years old, weathered canopy of cedars, their trunks rising straight and quiet. Mixed in were maples and oaks, their leaves just beginning to turn. The forest felt still, (but you know me…I was on the lookout for bears, but thankfully didn’t see any 🥹). What a great place. It’s a kind of wild beauty that felt completely untouched.

By the end of the day, we’d hiked just about every path we could find. It’s amazing — this place is packed with history, beauty, and solitude, and yet it feels like a well-kept secret. One of those rare gems you stumble upon and wonder why it’s not on every travel list.

Sun setting on the cliff

Days 142-144 Charlevoix to Leland, MI

Sunday Sept 7- Tuesday Sept 9, 2025

Sunday

Did one more load of laundry and tidied up the boat in preparation for heading out tomorrow.

Monday

The forecast called for 11 mph winds with gusts in the 20s, and 2’ waves gradually increasing throughout the day. We left Charlevoix Harbor along with 18 other boats, all bound for Leland.

The first half of the trip wasn’t too bad — until we got to the bays leading down toward Traverse City. That’s when things turned into a washing machine! We were hit with wind waves and swell waves from two directions, with some waves reaching at least 4 feet. Not fun at all!

I thought I had secured everything before we left… well, turns out I was wrong! The clock came off the wall, the fridge popped open, and various items decided to go flying. That chaos lasted about an hour (though it felt much longer 😳). There was no way I could even take a video then either!

Things settled a bit after that, though it was still far from what you’d call “pleasure boating.” We eventually arrived — safe and kind of sound — at the Leland marina. Naturally, everyone swapped stories at the dock, and it turned out we weren’t the only ones with flying objects.

Looks like we’ll be here for at least two days, waiting for a good weather window to cross. Lots of conversations today about Mother Nature and the respect she demands!

Once we got the boat put back together, we took a stroll through the cute touristy town. Plenty of fun shops to explore — and yes, we found ice cream! Later on, we gathered with fellow Loopers for docktails and story-swapping. Then we wrapped up the night with dinner at The Cove. It was packed, and the food was absolutely delicious! We shared seafood chowder, walleye fish & chips and a piece of homemade cherry pie! YUM!

Tuesday

Not too exciting of a day, but sweet news: we found out the kitty went home with one of the office gals — she named him Skipper! The dockmaster decided he wasn’t quite ready yet, having just lost their dog a few days ago. All in all, still a great ending to that story.

Today was pretty low-key in the morning — as it should be after yesterday’s chaos! We eased into the day, then headed back out to explore more of the local shops, pick up a few provisions, and finally try one of the sandwiches at the famous sandwich shop here. It did not disappoint!

We tackled a few boat chores, but mostly took it easy, knowing we’ve got a long travel day ahead tomorrow. The plan is to head straight to Fayette, MI, located just north of Door County, but on Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.

Fayette is an old smelting town that dates back to 1861 and was in operation until 1891. After that, it became a ghost town, but today it’s preserved as a state park. You can still see many of the original buildings and explore the area. We’re really looking forward to it.

Days 139-141 Thursday Sept 4-Saturday Sept 6, 2025

THURSDAY

Weather may have kept us grounded today (and likely the next few days), but that didn’t stop us from making the most of it.

We (Ron,Alisa, Jeff & I) spent the day exploring something truly unexpected and magical — the famous mushroom houses (also called gnome homes or hobbit houses), tucked right here in town. These fairytale-like cottages were the vision of Earl Young, a local legend who had a lifelong love affair with rocks. Seriously — the guy collected boulders like most people collect stamps.

In the early 1900s, he began crafting some of the most unique homes I’ve ever seen, using massive stones he dragged from Lake Michigan by hand and sheer will. His goal? To prove that a small, whimsical stone cottage could rival the grandeur of a castle. Mission accomplished, Earl.

Each home feels like it’s straight out of a storybook — curved lines, mossy roofs, and those unforgettable stone details. The history behind it all is deeply rooted in this town and absolutely worth the tour.

After our little architectural adventure, we strolled through town, did some shopping, and ended up at the Weathervane Restaurant — another one of Earl Young’s creations. It’s not just a restaurant; it’s a living piece of his legacy.

We sat at the bar and met Vlad, the bartender, who was an absolute character (in the best way). We all had SO MUCH FUN with him! We shared warm bread, a whitefish trio, some killer clam chowder, and of course — martinis all around. 🍸

One of the most incredible features inside? A massive boulder built right into the fireplace. Earl was so taken with that particular rock, he hid it for over 20 years before finally incorporating it into the Weathervane. Talk about long-term vision.

All in all, it was a terrific way to spend a rainy day — surrounded by cozy charm, local lore, fantastic friends and a martini to top it off!

FRIDAY

Another wild, windy, and rainy day on the lake — but that didn’t stop us from venturing out to see the waves. And wow… they did not disappoint. Forecast said 10-footers, but just a bit south they were rolling in at 14 feet! Spectacular to watch — from a safe distance. No thank you, Poseidon. 🌊

We ducked into The Happy Troll Deli & Pub for lunch, and it totally lived up to the name — cozy vibes, great food, and the perfect place to warm up after the wind.

Afterward, we wandered through town again, checking out a few more shops and making a stop at the local fish market to pick up some dips (because priorities).

The evening was slow and sweet — we hung out on the back deck of the boat, watching the sky play games with us: a few golden rays breaking through one minute, followed by sheets of rain the next.

Dinner was just appetizers, laughter, and soaking in our last evening with friends. Simple, relaxed, and kind of perfect.

But then… just as we were wrapping up for the night, we thought we heard something — a tiny, high-pitched cry, barely audible over the rain.

A kitten.

Us girls went to investigate and sure enough, we found it — I’m sure it was soaked and shivering under the dock by the gangplank. We called to it; it meowed back, over and over… until the sound faded. Whether from exhaustion, fear, or the cold, it finally went quiet. 💔

There wasn’t much we could do in the dark and storm, but it was heartbreaking to walk away. We’re hoping for a better chance to help in the morning.

SATURDAY

The rain had finally eased, but the wind still wasn’t letting up. First order of the day: Operation Save the Kitty.

Alisa headed up to the marina office first thing to let them know about the kitten we’d heard crying under the dock the night before. Within minutes, two amazing women from the marina came out to investigate. After assessing the situation, they decided to wait for the dock master to arrive before taking action.

Meanwhile, we had to say a bittersweet goodbye to our friends, who caught a local cab for the hour-long ride to Traverse City. We had hoped to take them ourselves, but the wind had other plans.

Back to the kitty…

When the dock master arrived, he didn’t waste a second. He started pulling up dock boards right away, and soon his wife and the two women from the office joined in to help. The kitten, hearing the commotion, started crying louder — a mix of fear and maybe a little hope.

They finally pinpointed where it was stuck: behind a header beam. Out came the skill saw. More boards were cut. The cries got louder. And then — freedom. The tiny kitten darted out, terrified… and in a panic, leapt into the freezing cold water.

Without hesitation, the dock master reached in and scooped it out, wrapping it in a towel and holding it close.

And then came the moment that made this story unforgettable.

I told him, “You should keep the kitten — you saved it.

He paused, and then quietly said, “I think I will. We just lost our dog last week… it’s been hard. This feels like a sign.”

He’s thinking of naming it Doc — after the dock where it was rescued, and maybe even a little nod to fate. 🐾💙

Next great story of the day- we are Great grand parents! Granddaughter Maia and her husband Tyler had a baby boy this morning! Bennett Lee-Roy Carns was born at 7:30am. He is healthy and beautiful and all are doing well!

After that emotional morning, the afternoon settled into a slower rhythm: laundry (as always), and then a meet-up with fellow Loopers in the marina lounge. There was a casual burger cookout going on for the college football game. We didn’t stay too long, but long enough to share some stories and swap plans.

Right now, the weather window looks best for a Monday departure. The plan is to head down to Leland for two nights, then make our crossing over to Door County on Wednesday, when the lake should (hopefully!) calm down.

Here’s hoping the forecast holds… and that Doc the kitten is settling into his new home just fine. ❤️

Days 135-138

Sunday August 31-Wednesday September 3, 2025

Sunday

Saying “Bye for Now” & Stocking Up

We said “bye for now” to our friends Candace and David from Too Nasty. Since we never got a photo together yesterday, we made sure to brighten the day with an early morning one 😁. We’re hoping to see them again sometime after Chicago!

Candace and me

After they left, we grabbed our backpacks and walked to the grocery store and fish shop to pick up the rest of our provisions for the coming week. Then it was back to the boat to finish up a few things before our friends Ron and Alisa arrived.

Once they got in, we enjoyed snacks and beverages on the back deck while catching up. Later, we took a short walk out to the lighthouse, had docktails with other Loopers, and went to dinner at the Mackinac Grill. A fun first night all around!

At the lighthouse with Ron & Alisa

Mackinac Island Magic

The next morning, we were ready to head to Mackinac Island. It was a short one-hour trip from St. Ignace, and docking at the marina went smoothly. Once we were settled, we walked to town and got tickets for a carriage ride. It was a lovely two-hour tour around different parts of the island—absolutely beautiful, and made even better by the picture-perfect weather!

After the tour, we strolled over to the Grand Hotel. Sitting on the porch in the rocking chairs, we ordered a few bites and some drinks—each of us tried something new and unusual, and we were all happily surprised.

Of course, we had to explore inside as well. We found a cozy little bar up on the 5th floor and just had to sit and enjoy another sip.

Next stop? A bit of shopping and, naturally, some fudge! We wrapped up the day with dinner at the Pink Pony—delicious food in a super fun atmosphere!

Tuesday

Traveling to Boyne City

Today was mostly a travel day. We left Mackinac Island and made our way down to Charlevoix, then continued into the bay to reach Boyne City. We’d heard the town had an award-winning Main Street full of great restaurants and shops, and it did not disappoint.

The marina was beautiful, and once we walked into town, it exceeded all expectations. We ended up at a European restaurant that served absolutely terrific food—and it was packed for a Tuesday night. A great end to a travel day!

Wednesday

Rainy Start, Charming Finish in Charlevoix

We woke up to rain this morning, so we stayed put until it mostly cleared by early afternoon. Once the skies brightened, we made our way back up to Charlevoix.

After getting settled at the marina, we headed out for a walk and found a cute spot called The Vue to relax for a bit. Later, we had dinner at the Bridge Street Tap Room—great food and a cozy atmosphere.

Charlevoix is such a pretty town. Even with the gray skies, its charm shines through.

Days 133-134

Drummond Island – Government Bay Anchorage- St. Ignace, MI

Friday & Saturday August 29-30, 2025

Friday

We left the marina at Drummond Island today and cruised about three hours southwest to a quiet anchorage called Government Bay, just south of Cedarville, MI. The water was calm—thankfully!—but the chill in the air is definitely reminding us that summer’s winding down. 😞

The anchorage itself is peaceful and scenic, a great little stopover spot. While we were settled in, I made a custom cushion for the top of our Yeti cooler, and Jeff installed the snaps to secure it in place. It turned out great! Not only does it look sharp, but it also adds extra seating around the table on our back deck—super handy for hosting guests.

Speaking of guests, I also enjoyed reclaiming my little “sweat shop” and turning it back into a cozy sleeping area. That storage compartment under the bed cushions came through in a big way—I was able to stash away all my materials, foam, saw, and even my guitar. The only thing still without a perfect spot is the sewing machine, but we’ll figure that out eventually.

What a peaceful anchorage. The wind was just about nil and no listening to slapping of the waves on the hull to lull me to sleep. It did get chilly, though. We woke up to 48 degrees outside. Not ready for that yet! After our morning coffee, we pulled up anchor to head out. We’ve decided to take the path less traveled. It’ll likely add only 30 minutes onto our trip.

From there, we headed to St. Ignace for a two-night stay. As soon as we arrived, we spotted our Looper friends from Too Nasty—David and Candace—and made dinner plans to catch up. We walked over together to a Caribbean spot called Kingston Kitchen, which I think also has a location on Mackinac Island. The food was delicious, the company even better. We swapped stories, laughed a lot, and made some loose plans to reconnect again soon. Of course I forgot to grab a photo of us all😞

Sometimes you meet people who just click, and David and Candace are exactly that kind of people. I love when that happens—it’s one of the best parts of this whole adventure.

We ended the evening with a fabulous fireworks display. It was right across the bay from the marina and the display was great! Evidently this happens every Saturday night in the summer! I think tonight was the last one. Glad we were here for it. Nope…no photos, my phone was charging, so I just enjoyed it!

Next up: Ron and Alisa fly in tomorrow for six days of fun aboard. We can’t wait to share this experience with them!

Days 130-132

Tuesday August 26-Thursday August 28, 2025

Eagle Island Harbor Anchorage-Blind River Marina-DrummondYacht Basin, Michigan

Tuesday – From Anchorage to Blind River Marina

We left our anchorage and headed toward Blind River Marina. It was a bit rough for a short stretch, but most of the trip was smooth sailing. The weather has certainly shifted—I was hoping for relief from the hot, humid days, but I didn’t quite mean fall-like temps!

Once we got settled, we crossed paths with many other Loopers—some we hadn’t seen in quite a while. It was so nice to reconnect. I took care of laundry and knocked out a couple of chores. Later, we gathered for docktails under a gazebo right on the water with Sweet and Salty, Bobcat, Tortuga, Inception II, and Arcadia. What a view!

As always, there were lots of stories—especially about the windy weather, high waves, and of course, boat parts in need of replacing. It’s a great group, full of laughter and camaraderie. Tomorrow, some of us are heading out to cross back into the U.S.

Wednesday – Hello Again, USA (Drummond Island, MI)

We weren’t sure how rough today’s water would be, but the ride turned out better than expected. We arrived safely at Drummond Island, Michigan—yes, we’re back in the USA! Just as we got settled into the marina, it started to spritz a bit.

Gorgeous water color!

Several other Looper boats came in today as well. When the wind is favorable, everyone moves. After taking care of a few chores, we planned to meet for docktails—but right as it was time to gather, the skies opened up with real rain… not just a drizzle.

I hadn’t been to the store and was scrambling to find something to bring. I remembered I had some frozen shrimp. In the rush to cook them, I got distracted and the pot boiled over—left a stain on the cooktop that looks like a creepy face! 🤪 Luckily, the shrimp turned out great and were devoured in no time.

Stove top creepy face

Because of the rain, we moved the party with –Valkyrie, Tortuga, Back Forty, and new Loopers Current Obsession into the laundry room. On the Great Loop, you’ll find docktails, rocktails… and apparently now, laundry-tails! I even tried to convince a few folks to hop into the dryers for a photo—but no takers. Still, we had a great time together.

Laundro -tails

Thursday – Groceries, Guests, and “Creepy Face”

Today we took the courtesy car and made a grocery run—time to restock as we prepare to move again tomorrow. We’re also rearranging a few things on board to get ready for our friends, Ron and Alisa, who will be joining us on Sunday. This will be the first time we’ve had anyone overnight with us on the Loop! We’re really looking forward to it—it’s going to be a terrific time.

The day was nice overall, but breezy and definitely on the chilly side. Still working on getting “Creepy Face” off the cooktop. It’s coming off slowly… ugh!

Days 127-129 Killarney – Little Current-Eagle Island

Saturday August 23-Monday August 25, 2025

Saturday

We left Killarney and headed to Little Current. We had some small bouts of rain and a small section of 3+ ft waves. Once we arrived in little Current the sun came out! We pumped out, got some diesel and water and walked to a spot called the Dockside to have lunch. Then we hit up the grocery store to get a few things. Can’t get too much as there have been rumors going around amongst other loopers that when you come back into the US, depending on who you get when you report your entry, they may take things away from and fine you (meat, some dairy and fruits & veggies). once done, we moved on another 12 miles to a well protected, peaceful anchorage for the night. The forecast is for quite a bit of wind the next few days.

Little Current Swing Bridge

Sunday

The anchorage was just perfect through the night but we want to keep moving. We are meeting friends in a week and have some ground (or water🤪) to cover- through some wind to get there. We decided once we had a window, to move to another anchorage about 7 miles to the north. We settled into Eagle Island Harbor Anchorage. Gorgeous! Very well protected on all the sides we need! We will be here two nights since the wind tomorrow will be worse than today. I finished my last cushion cover back that I wanted to do. All I have left is Jeff’s helm seat, which is in pretty good condition!

Pretty view from our anchorage!

Monday

Just hanging out at Eagle Island today. The winds are a bit too much for where we want to go from here. Should be good tomorrow, so we will be on our way then.

A couple more joined us today.

Days 122-126

Monday-Friday August 17-22, 2025

We left the marina and headed north through the ever-winding channel. At times, the channel barely fit our boat. You knew you had to stay in the channel—just a few feet off, you could see rock (I mean boulders!) lurking beneath the surface. Definitely not something you want to hit!

We anchored in Byng Inlet behind an island—a very peaceful spot.

Tuesday

We awoke to a little drizzle this morning. Good thing we’re only headed to the Bustard Islands, just about three hours away. And Bustard Island did not disappoint! Absolutely beautiful.

We took the dinghy around and through a small channel (only a dinghy could fit through), and discovered another anchorage with three boats—one of which we recognized! It was Sea Major with owners Ray and Betsy! We had met them back in Cape Vincent, NY.

Though they weren’t there when we passed by earlier, we ran into them on our way back. They invited us aboard to catch up, and we had lively conversations about our journeys since we last met. We hope to run into them again along the way. What a beautiful place to spend the night.

Wednesday

We made our way to Bad River, and then continued on to Collins Inlet. The beauty of Collins Inlet is truly breathtaking—tall rocks and tall pines lining both sides of the narrow passage.

About halfway through, we came upon a long lake, where we found the most beautiful anchorage for the night. I even had time to sew another cushion.

We’ve had a few days without cell service or Wi-Fi, so we’ve been polishing up our Gin game 😊.

Thursday

We finished navigating Collins Inlet—somewhere between 8 to 10 miles of pure natural beauty.

We arrived at Killarney Mountain Lodge, a gorgeous location that serves as a conference center, hotel, and marina. It sits right on the channel connecting Georgian Bay with the North Channel.

So… we’re officially done with Georgian Bay 😞.

We enjoyed all the amenities—swimming pool, free laundry, great restaurants—and met up with at least 12 other Looper boats. We had appetizers on the deck, listened to live music in their bar area and even caught a fireworks display!

Fireworks!

Friday

We hiked to the lighthouse with Vicki from Renowned II.

We enjoyed docktails with fellow Loopers…at least 12 boats!

and for dinner ate at Herbert’s Fisheries (they boast “world famous” Fish & Chips!).

All in, it was a great day!

Days 117-121

WEDNESDAY -SUNDAY, AUGUST 13-17, 2025

Wednesday – Midland to Frying Pan Bay

We made it to Midland, ON yesterday after finishing the last two locks of the Trent Severn—another milestone behind us! Once docked, we jumped into “reset mode”: provisioning, laundry, fuel, pump-out, and fresh water. With the boat ready, we set our sights on Georgian Bay.

Had to have Poutine with pulled pork!

This morning we headed out and landed in Frying Pan Bay (such a fun name!), where we were lucky enough to snag a dock. The cove was absolutely gorgeous—and busy too. Since it’s part of a National Park, the island is filled with trails and wildlife, and the scenery is breathtaking. This area is part of what’s known as the “Thirty Thousand Islands,” and wow… it’s hard to take it all in. We’re told it only gets more and more picturesque from here.

Once settled, we hiked the trail around Fairy Lake, then cooled off with a refreshing swim and float in the crystal-clear water. Later, two other Looper boats arrived, along with a local sailing family and another group who said they’ve been returning to this spot for a week every summer they can. We quickly understood why—it’s magical here.

Thursday – Fly Country

I gave myself a break from cushion projects today and instead rigged up a screen door I bought—much needed now that we’ve officially entered “fly country.” 🪰

Make shift due to curved our curved top, but it works!

After that little boat improvement, we tackled another hiking trail, then came back for another swim in this unbelievably clean, clear water. In the evening, we took a dinghy ride to explore the area and soak in the surroundings. Sadly, we’ll be moving on tomorrow, but I’m confident the beauty will continue.

Friday – Henry’s & Killcoursie Bay

We left our peaceful Frying Pan Bay cove and cruised toward Henry’s Fish Restaurant, a famous stop for boaters in this area. It was a fun stop, but nothing to write home about. We split the walleye—fish and chips, then treated ourselves to an ice cream cone from Kawartha Dairy (a must!).

From there, we carried on and dropped anchor at Killcoursie Bay in Killbear Provincial Park. It’s another gem of an anchorage, with sandy swimming beaches dotting the shoreline. We spent the afternoon floating, swimming, and catching up on route planning now that we finally had some service.

Saturday – Parry Sound & Old Friends

Today’s mission was simple: ice. We went back into Parry Sound to resupply and actually see the Sound and debated our next move—find another anchorage or tuck into a marina. Since weather was looking a little questionable, the marina won. We pulled into Killbear Marina and were pleasantly surprised to see Looper friends John and Vicky from Renown II, who we had first met back in Brewerton. Dinner with them was such a fun reunion!

Sunday – Chores & Cooler Air

A front rolled through overnight bringing rain, wind, and finally, a welcome drop in temperatures. We decided to stay put for another day. That meant chore time—yes, more sewing! Another back cushion is now complete, leaving just two more to go, plus the captain’s helm seat. Slowly but surely, the list is shrinking. Tomorrow we’ll move on, refreshed and ready for the next adventure.

Days 108-116

Tuesday August 5- Tuesday August 12, 2025

Tuesday August 5

We left the wall at the Lakefield Lock this morning and made our way toward an anchorage just before the town of Bobcaygeon. Our first stop was Longs Point Lock, home to the Lockside Trading Company—whose tagline, “It’s not a store, it’s a shopping experience,” proved to be absolutely true. We took a break there to look around and were impressed by the selection. They had everything from furniture and kitchen accessories to clothing and home décor. All of it was surprisingly nice and reasonably priced! Jeff bought a T-shirt, and I could’ve easily picked out a few things myself—but I held off… this time.

We passed through four locks today, but unlike our previous stretch, these were much more spread out. We had long stretches of open water, wide lakes, and clusters of beautiful islands in between. The scenery was just stunning. I could come back to this area anytime—it’s that lovely.

We dropped anchor in the late afternoon and wasted no time jumping in for a swim. The sun had warmed things up, and the cool water felt amazing. After a good float, we settled in and just soaked up the peaceful surroundings—boats pulling kids on tubes, a few buddies fishing nearby, and a nearby church summer camp echoing with the laughter of happy kids.

The best moment of the evening came after dinner. We watched two boys—maybe 8 or 10—head out in their paddle boat, determined to fish. They stood on the edges just like grownups, talking back and forth while casting their lines. One caught a fish, but it was too small to keep. Then they switched things up—one sat down to pedal while the other trolled behind. It was simple and sweet and reminded us how magical this kind of summer can be.

Wednesday August 6

We decided to tie up at the lock wall in Bobcaygeon for the day—time to get a little shopping done and tackle a few chores. What an adorable, bustling town! Flowers spill from planters, hang from lampposts, and brighten every corner.

While we were docked, I managed to sew another cushion bottom, and Jeff helped me staple it back onto the board. The lock wall turned out to be the perfect spot for both people-watching and boat-watching. You see all kinds here: the show-off with the big cigarette boat, the family on summer vacation, and everything in between.

For dinner, we couldn’t resist a place called Just for the Halibut. Naturally, we ordered the halibut fish and chips—and they were every bit as delicious as the name was clever.

Thursday August 7

We made our way to Fenelon Falls today. The lock here was bustling—so busy they were even putting boats in the middle. Once we cleared it, we spotted a prime spot on the wall with power and quickly snagged it.

We set off for a walk, exploring the park before making our way to the local brewery for lunch. We split a delicious burger and enjoyed some top-notch people-watching.

In the afternoon, I dove back into my cushion project. Honestly—whose idea was this? Trying to cut a big piece of fabric in a small boat space should count as an Olympic event. Meanwhile, Jeff was happily tinkering away with the electronics.

Evening seemed to sneak up on us. We kept dinner simple with BLTs, then spent the rest of the night on the back deck, chatting with passersby and enjoying the laid-back vibe. A truly delightful evening.

Friday August 8

Today was a five-lock day, starting with the Kirkfield Lift Lock—our first time going down instead of up. It’s just like the Peterborough Lift Lock, only in reverse, which somehow makes it even more unnerving. Sitting in that massive tub of water and looking down at where you’re about to go… well, let’s just say it makes your stomach do a little flip. But before we knew it—about 60 seconds later—we’d dropped 65 feet. It’s amazing how quick it is!

Cool bridge built in 1905

We wrapped up the day at the top of Lock 40, “Thorah,” where we decided to stay the night. I managed to finish another cushion bottom, with Jeff stepping in again to help staple it back onto the board. I would have finished the last one… except I realized (much too late) that I’d sewn the entire thing upside down. UGH. At least it’s the smallest of the cushions, but still—🙄.

Saturday August 9

Today we make our way through the last two locks before we get to Lake Simcoe. We cross over to the Northwest and head to the Port of Orillia, a marina in the town of Orillia where we will spend two nights. Once we get into our slip, we go get provisions, do laundry and wash down the boat. We have docktails with approximately 15-20 other looper couples before heading back to our boat to cook burgers on the grill. It’s so nice to be in a marina with electric since it’s quite warm out and AC is very much welcomed!

Sunday August 10

We were so excited to reconnect with our friends Sue and Mike, whom we met on our trip to Peru a couple of years ago! They live just southwest of Toronto—about a two-hour drive from us—and graciously made the trip up to see us. We had the most wonderful day together: a boat ride out on the water, anchoring to swim, float, share snacks, and chat for hours, and then returning to the marina for a walk to a local favorite spot for dinner. It felt like no time had passed at all, as if we see them every day. We’re already dreaming up our next adventure together!

Monday August 11

We left the Port of Orillia this morning, heading further along the Trent–Severn Waterway. Our first obstacle was the Canadian National Railroad bridge, which has quite the reputation among boaters. Word on the water is, if you call the operator or toot your horn, he might just make you wait longer. A few days ago, 15 boats were reportedly stuck for three hours before it finally opened. Some say the delay is his way of keeping control; others claim it’s simply the railroad’s unpredictable schedule. Either way, when the bridge stalls, the lock just ahead backs up like rush hour traffic on water.

We arrived just before 10 a.m., with the board showing the next opening at 10:20. Right on cue at 10:19, another train rolled through. Even after it cleared, we waited another 20 minutes before the bridge slowly began to lift. We waved our thanks and carried on.

Two locks later, including one with a 47-foot drop, we pulled up to our stop for the night—the upper wall at the Big Chute Marine Railway! We’re third in line for tomorrow morning’s crossing, and I’m beyond excited to experience it. After tying up, we wandered over to watch a few boats make the trip—it’s absolutely fascinating to see them ride over land in a giant cradle.

Once the show was over, a few of us decided the day called for one last treat: a swim and a lazy float in the warm afternoon sun.

Tuesday August 12

So we woke up excited for the day! The Big Chute! The first in line was “Weezer” and they went alone since they were a larger boat. Next was “Happy Hour” and us. We went in first since we were a bit smaller, but that made for the best seat in the house! I did a video that I have linked to YouTube below. After the Big Chute we had one more lock to do…and WE FINISHED TRENT SEVERN WATERWAY! It was absolutely fascinating and fabulous! Now starts the Georgian Bay and the North Channel, which is supposed to be even more beautiful!

https://youtube.com/shorts/lm-YmW2M1ps?si=-nUHLVhkr6O5dDv_

Click above for my video of Sea U Later going on the Big Chute Marine Railway.

It was an absolute blast! The folks running it really knew what they were doing!

Days 102-107

Thursday-Monday July 30-August 4, 2025

THURSDAY-Trenton to Glen Ross

We got an early start today, heading out just before 9 AM for our journey from Trenton to Glen Ross. Along the way, we passed through seven locks—all of them operated manually. It’s fascinating to watch the lockmasters at work, using hand cranks and levers to open and close the gates. There’s a real sense of history in every turn.

At the final lock of the day, we had a fun surprise. After locking through and tying up, we walked back to help out our buddy boat, Sea Positive with Ken & Linda aboard. The lockmaster let us assist with operating the lock for their arrival—definitely a unique experience!

We’re all tied up on the wall just above the lock for the night. Before settling in, we wandered over to a nearby general store and treated ourselves to some ice cream made by Kawartha Dairy, a beloved local creamery. They had all the classic flavors—and I have to say, it was some of the best ice cream I’ve had in a long time!

FRIDAY – Glen Ross to Campbellford

We cast off just after 8 AM to make it in time for the 9 AM lock opening. It was another lock-filled day—five in total—all of which we shared with our buddy boat Sea Positive and a lone jet skier who kept pace with us most of the way.

Just after the Ranney Falls lock, we took a detour to explore the suspension bridge that spans the gorge. It’s known for offering spectacular views of the falls—but due to the dry summer, the water was barely trickling. Even so, the bridge was impressive and made for a fun stop.

A mile or so later, we arrived in Campbellford, our stop for the night. This charming little town has a cozy feel and plenty to explore right along the waterfront.

Back on the boat, I finally finished my first cushion! Jeff helped me get it all stapled and secured in place—teamwork at its finest.

We headed out for a casual dinner at Tonic & Taps, a local spot with surprisingly good fish and chips. After dinner, we wandered through the park next to our mooring and stumbled upon a giant Loonie sculpture—Canada’s iconic $1 coin, in super-sized form. Definitely a fun photo op!

It was a perfect night for sleeping, with the temperature dipping down into the 50s. Cool, crisp, and peaceful

SATURDAY – Sweet Treats & Swimming on Rice Lake

We kicked off the day with a much-anticipated visit to the famed Dooher’s Bakery—a true Campbellford institution. It’s the kind of place locals rave about and visitors are willing to line up for—and now we know why! Everything looked (and smelled) incredible. We picked up a fresh-baked loaf of sourdough, and Jeff scored some still-warm caramel rolls, along with a few other irresistible goodies.

We had hoped to check out the local cheese shop too, but after a closer look at the map, we realized it was over three miles out of town—not quite walking distance. Oh well, next time!

By around 10:30 AM, we cast off and set our sights on a 6-lock day with plans to anchor out for the night—and maybe sneak in a swim. We made it through five locks and crossed most of Rice Lake, enjoying the wide-open water and warm sunshine.

We eventually found a beautiful anchorage near where the Trent River reconnects with the lake, about two-thirds of the way down. It was quiet, scenic, and just right. We jumped in for a refreshing swim, had an easy dinner on board, and enjoyed a peaceful night under the stars. The kind of evening that reminds us why we’re doing this.

Two loons stayed by our boat for the night🥰

SUNDAY- Eight lock day to Lakefield, ON

We were sad to leave such a gorgeous spot, but we must go on.

Today was a much busier day in the locks than anticipated. We went through 8 locks, one was the Peterborough Lift Lock. It was more like a boat ride in an elevator. And not just any elevator, but one that lifts us 65 feet straight into the sky, using nothing but water and gravity.

Looking back at the top of the lift lock

As we approached, the structure itself looked like something out of a steampunk novel — massive concrete towers rising from the canal, flanking two enormous water-filled chambers. It’s hard to believe this was built back in 1904 — and even harder to believe it’s still operating using its original hydraulic system, entirely powered by water.

Here’s how it works (and it’s wild): there are two huge pans — think of them like floating bathtubs — each large enough to hold several boats. When we pulled into the lower pan and tied up, another boat entered the upper pan. Then the magic began.

The lock attendants added just one extra foot of water to the upper chamber, making it slightly heavier. That small difference was enough to set the system in motion. Slowly, smoothly, the upper pan began to descend… and with it, we rose — lifted by nothing more than balance and pressure. In about 90 seconds, we were 65 feet higher, looking out over the Peterborough skyline and the canal below.

It’s the highest hydraulic boat lift in the world and was the tallest lock ever built when it opened. Even today, over a century later, it’s a jaw-dropping experience. No motors, no electricity — just elegant, functional engineering.

For a boater, it’s not just a passage — it’s a performance.

We ended our day at the top of Lakefield lock. It was a long busy slow day, especially since it was a 3 day holiday weekend here in Canada. We tied up behind another looper boat we had met in Kingston and had a very low key night enjoying a home cooked meal followed by a walk to the ice cream shop in town. We are thinking of just staying put another night.

MONDAY-work day

We ended up staying an extra night in Lakefield and it worked out perfectly. With several boats leaving in the morning, we were able to back up just enough to hook into shore power. A small luxury that made a big difference!

It turned into a productive day aboard. Jeff finished building the housing around the generator—another big project officially checked off the list! Meanwhile, I dove into the rest of the bottom cushions. Taking them apart was no small task (and let’s just say they were well loved), but I managed to cut all the new foam and get everything prepped for the rebuild.

Of course, no project day is complete without a little mishap…

I was using my super nice new foam-cutting saw—carefully working inside—and everything was going great. That is, until the final piece. As I cut, I thought, “Hmm… this blade must be getting dull.” Turns out, it wasn’t the blade—it was me… cutting through the foam, my area rug, and the fridge power cable. 😳

Thankfully, the blade was fully extended but not dangerously sharp. And even more thankfully, Jeff of all trades came to the rescue! He quickly repaired the fridge wiring, and I managed to patch the rug so well you’d never know it happened. Crisis averted, and we’re still laughing about it.

By late afternoon, the lock wall filled up again—loopers and vacationers alike—and the place was buzzing once more. Oh and the smoke from the wildfires made its way here.

All lined up for the night- with a hazy sun

Tomorrow, we’ll be back on the move, recharged, refreshed, and a little more organized than when we arrived.

Day 101-Hay Bay Anchorage to Trenton, ON

Wednesday July 30, 2025

Today we made our way to Trenton, the official start of the Trent-Severn Waterway. This historic waterway stretches 240 miles and connects Lake Ontario to Georgian Bay in Lake Huron. Along the route are 44 locks—including three that are especially unique—and 15 swing bridges. It’s recognized as a National Historic Site of Canada and is considered one of the most scenic and iconic parts of the Great Loop.

The first lock was constructed in 1833, but the full canal wasn’t completed until the early 1920s. We’re planning to take about 10 days to make our way through it.

The three standout locks are the Peterborough Lift Lock (one of the highest hydraulic lift locks in the world), the Kirkfield Lift Lock (another engineering marvel), and the Big Chute Marine Railway, where boats are carried over land on a rail system instead of passing through a traditional lock. We’re excited to experience them all firsthand!

While in Trenton, we walked to a couple of stores to get provisions and did a load of laundry. We met another looper couple (Ken & Linda from Sea Positive). They are leaving to start the locks tomorrow as well. We had docktails with them before having our dinner of leftovers. This next section should be interesting and beautiful! I likely will only be posting every few days during this time.

PS: I forgot to mention this Marina is a mile from the end of the runway for the largest Air Force Base in Canada. You know who is in his glory😁

Day 100-Kingston to Hay Bay Anchorage

Tuesday July 29, 2025

On Tuesday, we woke up early and made our way to Morrison’s Restaurant for breakfast—a Kingston institution since 1921, with the same family owning it since 1962. Walking in felt like stepping back in time. The place, normally buzzing with locals, was kind of quiet. The decor was charmingly retro, and the service was lightning fast. Our waitress took our order and, in true old-school fashion, shouted it directly to the kitchen—no tickets, no screens, just good ol’ muscle memory. The cooks didn’t miss a beat. Within minutes, steaming plates of hearty, delicious breakfast arrived at our table. Fast, friendly, and satisfying—can you say “ to go box?”

On the way back to the boat, I noticed a sailboat named Festina Lente—the same name as the last boat my parents owned. It means “Make Haste Slowly.” They had bought that boat with the dream of doing the Great Loop, but they never got the chance. Seeing that name again made me smile. It felt like a quiet reminder that in some small way, I’m doing this loop for them, too.

Parked right by us! You can see our boat in the background

We had about a four and a half hour journey to our anchorage spot. Once settled in, we tried to do a few chores but it was so hot we decided to swim first! What a great idea!

Once cooled off, we tackled a few chores. I sewed for a couple of hours before we had an easy dinner and enjoyed the sunset. We do not have WiFi in Canada so it’s been refreshing electronic break. Reading more and playing games.

Beautiful sunset with a sailboat neighbor.

Days 98-99 Kingston, Ontario

Sunday-Monday July 27 & 28, 2025

Kingston, Ontario – Our Canadian Welcome

We left Cape Vincent, NY under blue skies and smooth waters, bound for Kingston, Ontario. The cruise was only about three hours, but it was absolutely gorgeous—serene and scenic the whole way. As we approached Kingston’s historic waterfront, we pulled into the Confederation Yacht Basin, our home for the next two nights. It’s nestled right in the heart of the city, making it a perfect base for exploring. Here are some photos taken along the way…

Once we tied up, I made the call to the Canada Border Services Agency to check in. We’d heard so many stories from other boaters—some had to report to customs in person, others had officers board their boat, and a few were even charged fees for carrying too much food or alcohol. So I was prepared for anything. But, to my pleasant surprise, it couldn’t have been easier! The officer on the phone asked for our boat and passport info, how long we planned to stay, and whether we had any commercial goods to declare. Ten minutes later, we were issued our registration number—easy peasy! With that, we hoisted the Canadian courtesy flag, flying it just above our American one as a show of respect.

Kingston feels like a charming blend of old-world Europe and vibrant college town. Lake Ontario, the St Lawrence River and Rideau Canal all meet here. The bustling streets, historic limestone buildings, and sidewalk cafes give it an unmistakable European vibe. It’s also home to Queen’s University, the Royal Military College, and St. Lawrence College, giving the town a youthful, energetic pulse.

That evening, we met a fellow Looper couple from Sea Gypsy for docktails before they headed off to dinner. We opted to stay in and cook up some juicy burgers aboard.

Jeff, Jackie, Yuval, Hallie and Hallie’s sister, Julie. They introduced us to Screwball🤪

On Monday, we set out on foot in search of a bakery and struck gold—not one, but two! We couldn’t resist grabbing a cinnamon roll and a muffin, which we devoured as we hopped aboard the Kingston Trolley. Our first stop: Fort Henry. This historic 19th-century British military fort was a real treat—packed with artifacts, exhibits, and sweeping views of the city and river below. They had demonstrations of precision drill sequences, music, and the firing of cannons set with British Soldiers in 1867.

Afterward, we rode the trolley through the rest of Kingston’s highlights, then wandered on foot to a cozy spot I had read about—Red House. It did not disappoint. Lunch was fantastic—creative pub fare with a Canadian twist. A quick stop at the grocery store rounded out our city excursion.

It turned into another hot, humid, and sticky summer afternoon, so we cooled down back at the boat. On the dock, we ran into more Loopers from Breakaway, who were heading out tomorrow like us. Jeff tackled taking apart another cushion for me while I sewed a hatch cover—our version of productive boat life. After refreshing showers, we met yet another Looper couple –Outside Time and enjoyed docktails as the sun dipped low. They’ll be a day or two behind us, but odds are good we’ll cross paths again somewhere along the canal.

Tomorrow will be day 100 for us!

Day 97-Alexandria Bay to Cape Vincent, NY

Saturday July 26, 2025

This morning started off slow and satisfying with eggs and bacon on the boat before making our way back to Cape Vincent. Being a sunny Saturday in the height of summer, we expected the river to be busy—but wow, we didn’t expect that kind of chaos! It felt like every type of watercraft ever made was out there—jet skis zipping around, sleek fishing boats tearing through, cigarette boats thundering by, cruisers pushing their wakes, and pontoons loaded with people soaking up the sun. The water was frothing with activity, making for quite a choppy ride.

Thankfully, a few miles out, the madness mellowed and the river returned to a more relaxed rhythm. When we pulled into Cape Vincent, we weren’t sure we’d be lucky enough to snag a spot on the dock, but fortune favored us—we scored one! Even better, we docked next to two other boats that happened to be the same make as ours—one a little larger, the other a bit smaller. The couples aboard turned out to be absolutely lovely.

After a quick stroll into town to grab a few essentials, we couldn’t resist the inviting water and jumped right into the river! I had picked up a couple of floaties recently, so we took them for a test spin—definitely a great addition to our boat gear.

Dinner was casual and cozy—just the two of us on the bow, enjoying a bite while soaking up the music drifting over from the park’s summer festival. The town had live bands playing throughout the afternoon into early evening. Some were genuinely talented… others, well—let’s just say one group played what I’d call head-banger music, except there wasn’t even a beat worth banging your head to! 😆

Later, we were invited aboard one of our neighbor’s boats for evening drinks with both couples. We spent hours laughing, sharing stories, and discovering how much we had in common. It was one of those spontaneous boat nights that reminds you why this adventure is so special.

Day 96-Thousand Islands

Friday July 25, 2025

We’re still enjoying our stay at the Horizons Marina at the Thousand Islands Club on Wellesley Island. Perched directly across from Alexandria Bay, this spot has a charming past—once a private yacht club dating back to the early 1900s, it’s now open to the public and absolutely gorgeous. The manicured grounds are a treat to stroll, and the pool provided the perfect refresh yesterday.

Today was a blend of relaxation and connection. After tackling a bit of laundry, we hopped in the dinghy and zipped over to Alexandria Bay to meet up with my cousin Brenda, her kids, her sister-in-law, and her kids for lunch. Even though Brenda only lives about an hour from me back home, it was—as she put it—pure “kismet” that we ended up in the same place at the same time. Such a sweet and unexpected treat!

The rest of the day was spent on light chores, and I managed to finish another cushion—progress! That evening, we capped things off with a lovely dinner at the yacht club’s restaurant, soaking in the history and ambiance of this incredible place.

Day 95-Thousand Islands

Thursday July 24, 2025

After one of the most peaceful nights we’ve had on the water, we woke up well-rested and ready for adventure. Pulling up the anchor was quite the chore this morning — it felt like we were dragging up half the riverbed with it! Thick with mud and weeds, the anchor easily weighed three times what it normally does. No wonder we didn’t budge an inch all night. 😀

Our next stop was Dark Island to explore the enchanting Singer Castle, and wow — this place did not disappoint. Of all the castles we’ve visited, this one takes the crown. It has everything: turrets, antique furnishings, gorgeous views… and best of all — secret passageways galore! Since we arrived just before the first tour of the day, we ended up getting a private tour. What a treat! The ghost stories gave us goosebumps, and slipping through the hidden doors and staircases felt like we were in a real-life mystery novel. Honestly, the secrets of this castle might’ve been even better than the décor itself! Fun fact: Singer Castle was built by Frederick Bourne, the 5th President of Singer Sewing Machine Company in 1902. He based the layout and looks of the castle on the descriptions of a castle in the book “Woodstock”, written by Sir Walter Scott in 1896! I’ll have to read that book!

On our way back toward Alexandria Bay, the wind decided to spice things up a bit — the river turned into a bit of a washing machine. We rocked and rolled our way into town, stopping for lunch and hoping to pick up a long-awaited package at the post office. Lunch? A success. Package? Still MIA… maybe tomorrow.

Now let’s talk about that lunch — on the specials board, I spotted something called the Big Mac Burger. Naturally, I asked the waitress how big it was, and she casually replied, “Oh, it’s a pretty good size.” Sounded manageable… until it arrived. This was no ordinary burger. It was a full-on monster: two thick patties (somewhere between ¼ and ⅓ pound each), special sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, onions— and yes, a middle bun, all stacked on a toasted sesame seed bun. It was so tall it needed a knife stabbed through the top just to stay upright. 😂 The cook even came out to witness the spectacle of me attempting to eat it. It was absolutely delicious — and yes, I definitely needed a to-go box oh, and a fork!

I was NOT expecting this!😂

After lunch, we crossed the river (again, thank you Wind Gods) and made our way to the marina where we’ll stay for the next two nights. Docking was tricky thanks to the wind, but the magical captain pulled off another smooth landing. 💫 Once we were all tied up, we made a beeline to the pool — yep, this marina has a pool! 🥰 With temps hitting 90° and the humidity climbing, it was the perfect way to end the day.

Day 94-Rock Island Lighthouse & Boldt Castle

Wednesday July 23, 2025

As we slipped away from our dock in Clayton, our eyes were immediately drawn to the jaw-dropping 216-foot mega yacht moored nearby—none other than the Elysian, owned by billionaire John Henry, who counts the Boston Red Sox, Liverpool Football Club, and The Boston Globe among his assets. Valued at a cool $90 million, this floating palace has its own swimming pool and helicopter pad. Opinions around town are definitely mixed. Some locals grumble that it’s been hogging the waterfront view since before the Fourth of July and even blocked the park’s prime fireworks sightlines. Others, however, are thrilled at the $1,000 a day dockage fee it’s bringing into the local economy. Either way, it’s hard to ignore!

Elysian

From there, we cruised north through the shimmering waters of the St. Lawrence River to Rock Island Lighthouse, a charming little island steeped in maritime history. We were able to tie up at the dock and explore the grounds. A park ranger welcomed us and shared the lighthouse’s backstory—it was built in 1848 to guide ships safely through the Thousand Islands region. We climbed to the top of the tower, where we were rewarded with sweeping views of the surrounding river. Unfortunately, the windows were bug-covered, so our photos didn’t quite capture the beauty we were seeing (nature’s little photo filter, I guess 🥹). Onshore, we explored the keeper’s quarters, now turned into a quaint museum that offers a glimpse into life as a lighthouse keeper.

Once we left the lighthouse, we meandered through what is called “Millionaires Row”, a section of islands with large beautiful homes.

Next stop: the crown jewel of the Thousand Islands—Boldt Castle.

Perched dramatically on Heart Island, Boldt Castle looks like it was plucked straight from a fairytale. This breathtaking six-story mansion was originally commissioned in 1900 by George C. Boldt, millionaire proprietor of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel, as a labor of love for his wife, Louise. Tragically, construction came to a sudden halt in 1904 when Louise died unexpectedly. A heartbroken George never returned to the island, and the unfinished castle sat abandoned for over seven decades.

In the 1970s, the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority acquired the property and began restoring it to what Boldt had envisioned. Today, it’s open to the public and is nothing short of spectacular. From the grand marble staircase to the stained glass dome in the main hall, every corner oozes opulence. There’s even a powerhouse, an Alster Tower (sometimes called the “playhouse”), and meticulously landscaped Italian gardens.

We took our time wandering through the rooms, admiring both the original architecture and the restorations that have brought new life to this romantic relic. It’s easy to get swept up in the bittersweet love story and the sheer scale of the dream that was nearly lost to time.

After a full day of history, river breezes, and castle magic, we reluctantly pulled away, heading to a peaceful anchorage for the night.

Sun on rocky island
Another beautiful Canadian Sunset

Day 93-Cape Vincent to Clayton, NY

Tuesday July 22, 2025

After a much-needed peaceful night’s sleep, we finally left our wonderful dockage this morning.

But first, we installed the new cushion I’ve been working on. I’ll share a before-and-after photo once I finish the back pieces—it’s coming together nicely!

Our next stop was Clayton, NY, which took us about an hour and a half to reach by motor. Along the way, we passed Carleton Island, where the remains of a once-grand mega mansion still stand in quiet defiance of time.

The mansion was built in the 1890s by William O. Wyckoff, a successful businessman who made his fortune in the typewriter industry. He envisioned the estate as a summer retreat, and at 15,000 square feet with 11 bedrooms, it was certainly a statement of wealth and elegance.

Tragically, Wyckoff died on his very first night in the villa in 1895. His wife had passed away just a month earlier, so neither of them ever got to enjoy the magnificent estate. The mansion sat vacant for over 70 years, slowly succumbing to the elements and time.

In 2022, a real estate agent purchased the property for $300,000, with plans to transform it into a bed and breakfast—complete with glamping on the grounds. So far, though, there’s no sign that restoration work has begun. The villa still waits, as if holding its breath for a new chapter.

Once we were settled at our dock in Clayton, NY, we visited the Antique Boat Museum—a must-see for anyone who appreciates craftsmanship and history on the water. We also made a quick trip to the grocery store to restock a few essentials.

Dinner tonight will be low-key and just right for a summer evening: shrimp salad and a fresh baguette enjoyed onboard. Simple, fresh, and perfect.

Another beautiful sunset.

Day 90-92 Oswego to Cape Vincent

Saturday-Monday July 19-21, 2025

SATURDAY: A Smooth Crossing and a Hidden Gem

We got an early start today for our crossing over Lake Ontario—from Oswego to Cape Vincent, NY—and couldn’t have asked for better conditions. The lake was as calm as glass, the sun was shining, and the temperature was absolute perfection. As we got closer to the St Lawrence, we were rewarded with at least 100 loons in the water in every direction you could imagine. We’ve seen many loons together, but nothing to compare with that sight! Just WOW! It ended up taking us just under five hours to make the trip, with a little detour to “open it up” and check the trim tabs 😉

Cape Vincent sits just a bit up the St. Lawrence River, tucked off Lake Ontario, and the approach was stunning. The water here is so incredibly clear, it almost plays tricks on your eyes—you can see rocks that are surprisingly deep, but they look close enough to touch. A little eerie… but beautiful.

We were thrilled to find an open spot at the municipal dock—an absolute gem. Recently redone, it features brand-new electric and water hookups, inviting benches, and cheerful flower planters lining the center. It’s got space for about six decent-sized boats (or many smaller ones), and we were lucky enough to snag a place. Within minutes, we’d made fast friends with the crews from two sailboats already docked.

The afternoon heat and humidity crept up fast, so we all jumped in for a swim right off the dock. The water was refreshingly cold and just what we needed after the crossing.

That evening, we strolled a short block into town and found a local brewery with live music spilling onto the sidewalk. We split a flatbread, sipped some local brews, and soaked in the laid-back vibe of this charming little town.

We’re loving it so much, we’ve decided to stay here for three nights before heading up to Clayton, NY. Cape Vincent has definitely cast its spell on us.

SUNDAY: Sewing, Stories, and New Friends

The day began with a gentle rain—perfect weather to stay onboard. I took the opportunity to tackle my big sewing project. Naturally, I chose the cushion in the worst shape… which also turned out to be the most difficult one to replicate. I made good progress, though, and managed to get most of it done before I needed a well-earned break.

The humidity stuck around even after the rain cleared, so we kept the air conditioning running (which, I should mention with a happy grin—both units are working again! ☺️). The dock was quiet in the morning as our two sailboat neighbors casted off and continued on their way.

By midday, a fellow Looper boat, “Sea Major,” pulled in. We helped Ray and Betsy tie up and quickly struck up a conversation. Plans for docktails were made and by late afternoon we were gathered with drinks in hand, sharing laughs, experiences, and plenty of tips. They’ve already been farther up the St. Lawrence, so their stories gave us a sneak peek at what’s ahead—and now we’re even more excited.

Our docktail session turned into a couple of hours of good company and great conversation. We wrapped up with a late dinner on board, grateful once again for the incredible people we keep meeting on this journey. Something tells me we’ll cross paths with Ray and Betsy again before long.

MONDAY

Our day started with an uninvited wake-up call just after 3 a.m.—thanks to a restless St Lawrence River stirred up by gusty north winds. While the wind itself wasn’t outrageous (15mph, gusting to 25), the resulting waves tossed us around like socks in a washing machine. Needless to say, sleep after that was more of a suggestion than a reality.

But by morning, the winds began to settle, and we were rewarded with a picture-perfect day—crisp, dry air, low humidity, and highs in the low 70s.

We made the most of it! After knocking out a few chores and some cushion-sewing (I’m getting there!), we hopped on our bikes for a scenic ride to Tibbetts Point Lighthouse. The route was charming—lined with a variety of home styles, many with waterfront decks on the opposite side of the road and rustic stone steps leading right down into the lake.

Though the lighthouse is still active and can’t be climbed, we were able to peek inside and explore the fog horn building, which is now retired from service. The visitor center was a treat, especially when the host demonstrated a manual fog horn from the late 1800s. Let’s just say it would definitely get your attention on a foggy day!

Back at the boat, we took a refreshing swim before wrapping up the day with a delicious pork tenderloin—cooked to perfection in my brand-new air fryer. Boat life at its finest.

Days 85-89 Back on the boat!

Monday-Friday July 14-18, 2025

MONDAY

After a wonderful visit home, we returned to the boat refreshed and ready to roll. To our delight, every item on our repair list had been taken care of while we were away—what a welcome surprise! We reunited with our friends from Too Nasty and managed to squeeze in a meal together before they shoved off. (They were sweet enough to delay their departure just to see us—🥰).

The boat, however, was looking a little worse for wear. We rolled up our sleeves and got to scrubbing under the sweltering sun—it was hot and humid, the kind of sticky heat that makes even your eyebrows sweat. One major project we’d hoped to knock out while we were gone was the replacement of all our upper deck cushions. But the estimate we got was astronomical, so… DIY it is! I ordered a heavy-duty sewing machine, marine-grade foam, vinyl, a foam saw, and all the tools of the trade. By the time we arrived, our haul had taken over the marina office—we may have unofficially won the award for most boxes delivered 😄

Boating going back in the water

TUESDAY

Errand day! We grabbed one of the courtesy cars to stock up on supplies and knock out some chores around town. Of course, neither of the cars had air conditioning, so we got a nostalgic blast from the past—windows down, sweat dripping, and trying to remember how we ever survived like this. We get back to the boat to find one of our air conditioners is not working well. It is always something🙄 That night, we were invited aboard Renown II for post-dinner drinks with John and Vicki. Steve from River Girl joined us too—it was a perfect, low-key evening.

WEDNESDAY

Back to boat life means back to the never-ending list of chores. Jeff tackled another round of errands while I worked on finding somewhere to stash all the foam and materials that have taken over the boat. Even compressed, that stuff takes up a shocking amount of space. I swear I’m playing a 3D game of Tetris trying to make everything fit. After I finished that task, I started taking apart the cushion that was in the worst shape. Quite a dirty job but I was able to tear apart and get new foam cut as well.

THURSDAY

We’re off again! Today was a big push—roughly six hours navigating through eight locks. First, we cleared the final Erie Canal lock before making our turn north, and then we tackled seven more on the Oswego Canal. The last couple of locks toyed with us weather-wise. We’d just escape one shower, think we were in the clear—and then BAM! The skies opened up right as we entered the lock. Picture me with one hand on the lock rope, the other flailing to slam hatches shut—definitely earned a few style points on that one! 😅

Fortunately, the rain brought a refreshing break in humidity. We landed on the wall in Oswego, where we’ll hang tight for a couple of days while we wait for a good weather window to cross Lake Ontario. As a fun surprise, there was a live concert stage right across the canal. Every Thursday night, they host free live music, and tonight’s band brought the house down with southern rock and blues—think Allman Brothers and Charlie Daniels with some original songs mixed in. The best seats in the house? Our back deck!

Oh—and I broke in the new air fryer with homemade chicken fingers. Total win.

FRIDAY

Sleep was elusive last night thanks to a rolling storm and strong north winds that had us rocking and swaying until sunrise. But today made up for it in every way: clear blue skies, no humidity, and perfect temps in the low 70s. We explored Fort Ontario for a couple of hours, soaking in the history and sunshine, then grabbed lunch at a charming old train station turned pub. The patio was the place to be—finally, weather we could breathe in. Jeff then walked down to the maritime museum as I spent time getting acquainted with my new machine. I cut our material for the first cushion and got a bit of sewing done!

We’re still waiting on better wind conditions for the Lake Ontario crossing, but tomorrow’s forecast looks promising. We shared drinks aboard Inception II with Jon and Claire, who—along with a couple other Loopers—are also planning to cross in the morning. One last walk to the market for a few essentials, and we capped the night with good ol’ BLTs. Simple, delicious, and just right for a perfect summer evening.

Day 84-Brewerton, NY

Wednesday June 18, 2025

We spent the day wrapping things up and gearing down. This leg of the journey wasn’t about adventure—it was about preparation. We spent our time finalizing the punch list of maintenance items for the marina crew, cleaning out the fridge (always an adventure in itself!), and packing up for our trip home.

While we’re away for the next three weeks, the boat will be getting a little TLC: she’s being hauled out for trim tab repairs, a fresh bottom paint, an oil change, and a few other much-needed tweaks. By the time we return, she’ll be tuned up, cleaned up, and ready to hit the water once again—better than ever.

Day 83-Sylvan Beach, NY to Winter Harbor Marina, Brewerton, NY

Tuesday June 17, 2025

After three jam-packed days, we finally gave ourselves the gift of a slow morning—sleeping in and savoring a relaxed start. With the wind at our backs, we crossed Lake Oneida under near-perfect conditions. We couldn’t help but think how lucky we were not to be heading the other way—those whitecaps would’ve made for a much less pleasant ride!

We pulled into Winter Harbor Marina, where our floating home will stay while we head back to see our family. We miss them so much and are really looking forward to some quality time together. While we’re away, Jeff is coordinating with the marina’s mechanics to knock out a few minor maintenance items (he calls it “preventative care,” I call it “the boat spa”). Meanwhile, I dove into the usual pre-travel whirlwind: laundry, packing, and tidying up before we say goodbye for a few weeks.

It feels bittersweet to step away from the adventure for a bit—but family time is calling, and we can’t wait to answer.

Day 82-St.Johnsville, NY to Sylvan Beach, NY

Monday June 16, 2025

Another marathon day (7 locks) on the water! We kicked things off bright and early with the two locks in the section that had sustained the most damage during the recent closures—Locks 16 and 17. These are only open five times a day, on a tight two-hour schedule, and marked with strict 5 mph speed limits in certain stretches. We were lined up and ready for the first opening at 8 a.m., along with a small flotilla of other boats. Thankfully, things went smoothly. The lift in that first lock was only about 20 feet, so we were through pretty quickly and on our way to the next one, just eight miles upriver. With two hours to spare, we took it slow through the debris-strewn stretch, where the scars of recent flooding were still clearly visible—but no issues for us, thankfully.

Then came Lock 17… and oh boy, what a sh!t show.

We were told all boats had to stay on their port sides—no rafting allowed—and the lock master assured us that all five of us would fit. Spoiler alert: we didn’t. It turned into a chaotic juggling act. We spent the entire time fending off boats to avoid scraping rails or worse. We were right behind a sailboat with its mast down (a canal requirement), which actually made it longer than the boat itself. I teamed up with their captain to keep the mast, wind vane, antenna, and anchor light from turning into a tangled mess with our bow rail, while Jeff was in the stern trying to keep our dinghy from being crushed by the boat behind us.

To make matters worse, the lock wasn’t even equipped with enough lines for everyone—just poor planning all around. Honestly, it felt like the lock master had no clue what he was doing. The kicker? It was a 45-foot drop. Stress levels were high.

In the end, we somehow made it through unscathed—no damage, no injuries—but it was far more intense than it needed to be. Thankfully, once we cleared those two trouble spots, the rest of the day was smooth sailing and blessedly uneventful.

We snagged a prime spot along the dock wall, tied up, and set off to find a bite—and stumbled upon a gem called Harpoon Eddie’s. What started as a simple plan for drinks and pizza turned into a delightful night out. A live band was playing on the deck, the pizza was amazing, and we had a front-row seat to sweeping views of Lake Oneida bathed in the evening glow. The music, the food, the vibe—everything hit just right.

After dinner, we took a stroll and were completely charmed to discover a vintage-style amusement park tucked just nearby. It looked like a scene straight out of the 1950s—bright colors, old-fashioned rides, and all the nostalgic charm. Locals say it draws big crowds in the summer, especially families making memories the old-school way. What a sweet surprise to end the night!

Tomorrow we’ll make our way across the 20-mile stretch of Lake Oneida to our next marina, where we’ll start prepping the boat before heading home for a few weeks. But tonight was the perfect reminder of why we love this journey—the unexpected gems around every corner.

Day 80 & 81-Catskill, NY to Waterford, NY to St.Johnsville, NY

Saturday & Sunday June 14-15, 2025

Saturday

We pulled away from the quaint village of Catskill under a gray, drizzly sky. Rainy travel days aren’t our favorite—especially with the recent high water and floating debris—but we pressed on. Just north of Albany, we entered the Troy Lock, our first of the day, and rose a steady 14 feet. From there, we turned into Waterford to take on the legendary Five-Step Locks—an impressive series that lifted us 30 to 35 feet at each stage. It’s like stair-stepping through history! After a long, steady climb, we found a peaceful stretch of wall just beyond the final lock and tied up for the night—grateful for calm waters and a quiet spot to rest.

After a cozy dinner of leftover beef stew (which totally hit the spot), we set out for an evening walk. Along the way, we met a woman and her two daughters who introduced us to their Bengal cat—a first for us! This stunning feline had the wild look of a miniature leopard, but the personality of a total sweetheart. Incredibly friendly and clearly intelligent, it strutted along on a leash like a well-trained dog. We were fascinated! Definitely not your average evening stroll.

Sunday

We were up early and right into the first lock of the day the moment it opened. It was a marathon run—eight locks total! While we did see some debris along the way, most of it had been scooped up and stacked neatly aside. The lock crews have clearly been putting in serious hours over the past few weeks, and thanks to their hard work, the canal is open once again. We wrapped up the long day tied along a peaceful wall—tired, but so grateful to be back in the groove.

We ended our day on the marina wall in St Johnsville, NY with 3 other looper boats.

Day 79-Cornwall, NY to Catskill, NY

Friday June 13, 2025

Well, they opened up the Erie Canal today so we have made the decision to take the next several days and hit it hard so we can try to make it to our original destination of Brewerton, NY.

So we said goodbye to Cornwall and headed up to Catskill to continued our journey upriver, cruising past a handful of spots I’d been eager to explore. I told Jeff—we have to come back someday to see it all properly! One place that really caught my eye is the Walkway Over the Hudson in Poughkeepsie. It’s a 1.28-mile pedestrian bridge that towers 212 feet above the river, originally built as a railroad bridge in the late 1800s. After a fire in 1974, it sat in silence for decades until its grand reopening in 2009 as a scenic walkway. How cool is that?

Walkway over the Hudson

Another place on my list? The Culinary Institute of America. They have not one, but three restaurants—each one staffed entirely by students who rotate through every role, from chef to server to hostess. We had a fantastic experience at their San Francisco location, so I was excited to check this one out. But alas… next time!

The Culinary Institute of America

Today’s journey also treated us to one postcard-perfect view after another. We passed charming lighthouses, mysterious castle ruins, and even a nostalgic old-time tour boat chugging along—all set against the majestic backdrop of the Catskill Mountains.

We dropped anchor in the serene Catskill Creek and hopped in the dinghy for a little evening adventure. Our destination? Frank Guido’s Port of Call—and what a gem of a find it was! Just what we needed after a day on the water. We kicked things off with drinks at the bar, then settled into a cozy table where we dove into a feast: crispy bang bang shrimp, a crisp wedge salad, and rich, decadent lobster ravioli. Oh—and let’s not forget the bottle of wine that tied it all together perfectly. Everything was absolutely top-notch. A perfect night, start to finish.

Dinghy ride to dinner
Frank Guido’s Port of Call
Beautiful night

Days 77 & 78 Croton-on-Hudson to Cornwall, NY

Wednesday & Thursday June 11-12, 2025

Wednesday

Our plan today was to head out around 9am to get to our next stop-Cornwall Yacht Club. After all the rain the last two days and the cooler temperatures it brought, we woke up to thick dense fog! Most of the time it really doesn’t pay to have too many plans.

Fog all along the river

The skies finally cleared, gifting us with a stunning ride up to Cornwall, The scenery along the way was absolutely breathtaking! One of the highlights was cruising past majestic Bear Mountain, where the legendary Appalachian Trail weaves its way through the rugged terrain. Just beyond, we glided under the iconic Bear Mountain Bridge—extra special for us, knowing Jeff’s son hiked this very trail and crossed that bridge back in 2022.

As we rounded the bend, West Point came into view—and wow, what a sight from the water! It’s massive and awe-inspiring, steeped in history and standing proud on the banks of the Hudson. We can’t wait to explore it up close tomorrow!

We made it to Cornwall Yacht Club, where we will spend two nights. It was a tight marina to get into but my pro Captain made it look so easy!

We did some provisioning, made dinner and set our plans for a tour of West Point for tomorrow.

Thursday

We spent the entire day immersed in the grandeur of West Point—and what a day it was! Our two-plus hour guided tour took us through a remarkable journey of history, tradition, and honor. We explored the storied grounds, stepped inside awe-inspiring chapels, wandered through the solemn beauty of the cemetery, and visited countless points of interest scattered across this impressive campus. It truly feels like a city unto itself—steeped in legacy, discipline, and the unwavering spirit of those who’ve served.

We also spent time at the beautifully curated Visitor Center and the expansive museum. Although two of the museum’s floors were closed, it was probably a blessing in disguise—if they’d been open, we might still be wandering the exhibits! 🤣 (IYKYK!) The depth of history packed into even just the open sections was more than enough to keep us captivated.

We just also learned that they are opening up the Erie Canal tomorrow (Friday), we are talking about getting ourselves up there in time to still make our flight from our original location…stay tuned!

Days 75 & 76 Croton-On-Hudson

Monday & Tuesday June 9-10, 2025

We decided to leave our spot at the marina and anchor out for a couple of nights. The forecast? Rain, rain, and more rain. Not great news considering the major delays in opening the Erie Canal this spring. Our original plan was to make it to Brewerton, NY in time to catch our flight home from Syracuse on June 19th—our long-awaited visit to see family and friends. Now it’s looking more likely that we’ll need to rent a car in Albany and drive to Syracuse instead.

Thank goodness we made backup plans a couple of weeks ago with an alternate marina—just in case something like this happened. Yes, honey, this is why I’m a planner. 😉

The real bummer is that we were supposed to have new cushions made for the helm and outside seating areas, along with a few other maintenance items while we’re off the boat for a few weeks. We had someone lined up in Brewerton, but haven’t had any luck finding anyone available near Albany. Oh well—

Most Loopers seem to be in the same boat (pun intended): either crawling their way toward the canal openings or all stacked up in marinas waiting for updates. The record snowpack from the winter led to spring flooding, which damaged Lock 17’s embankment and caused issues at Lock 16. Today was supposed to bring an update on those repairs, but instead, they announced the closure of Locks 7–15 and postponed the Lock 16 & 17 update until “later this week”.

The only other option is through the Champlain Canal, which takes you up to Montreal before heading down the St. Lawrence Seaway. The catch? There’s a 17-foot fixed bridge that can be a dealbreaker for some boats trying to make it to the Great Lakes. Montreal is still on our minds—so maybe that conversation isn’t over yet.

One bright spot in all the dreariness: a sweet pair of ducks that paddle out to greet every new boat that anchors in the area, clearly hoping to be fed. They quack in these soft, short little conversational noises, looking completely adorable. It was so tempting to give in—but I promised I wouldn’t feed them. That was a tough promise to keep.

Don’t look at me like that😔

Both days were rainy, but finally, the skies cleared, and the sun came back. It’s amazing how much that little shift can lift the spirits.

Beautiful sunset…notice the low clouds in the valleys?

Days 73-74 Half Moon Bay Marina Crotan-On-Hudson, NY

Saturday & Sunday June 7-8, 2025

SATURDAY

This was one of those blissfully needed slow days—the kind where you finally take a breath. We soaked it in before diving back into the buzz of the city for a long-anticipated dinner with dear friends. The journey in itself was a little adventure: a train ride, a subway hop, and a quick sprint through a sudden downpour (because of course it rained right then) before we finally arrived at our destination—The Consulate.

Let me just say, what a gem! A charming restaurant with a sophisticated bar downstairs and a cozy, inviting space upstairs. We met our great friend Ron at the bar (we missed you, Alisa), sipped on cocktails, and caught up until his brother Charlie and Charlie’s girlfriend Marina arrived. It turned into one of those nights that feels effortless—the conversation flowed, the food was outstanding (those appetizers, wow), and the drinks hit just the right note. It was such a pleasure getting to know Marina and reconnecting with the brothers.

Escargot, Salmon Tartare and Grilled Octopus
Ron, Jeff, Jackie, Marina and Charlie

After dinner, we hoofed it back to Grand Central, took the train back up to Crotan, bracing for what we thought would be a pitch-black walk home. But instead, we were treated to a dreamy scene lit by a hazy, almost-full moon and the soft glow of the town. When we finally made it home, we were exhausted in the best way possible.

SUNDAY

This morning, we actually slept in (a rare luxury!), and the day felt like the perfect opportunity for a nature escape. So we grabbed a cab out to Croton Park and Dam, ready for a scenic hike up over the dam and around the park before returning.

The dam itself is impressive—historically known as the Cornell Dam, it was constructed from 1893 to 1906 to bolster NYC’s water supply. At its completion, it was the tallest dam in the world, and standing atop it, you can feel the weight of that history. Families were out everywhere, BBQs sizzling, kids playing, people just living in the moment.

We hiked down the opposite side, full of awe—and back out through the park to the highway…then, the twist: no cell service. Zero. None. Just a narrow, winding road back to town. No big deal—we embraced the unexpected and hoofed it back with no near-misses from passing cars and only a growing appetite.

We must be getting close!

That’s when fate smiled on us.

We stumbled upon a place called Croton Tapsmith, where the smell of wood-fired pizza lured us in like a cartoon. Outside, a true Italian pizza oven crackled, and we didn’t hesitate—we bee-lined for the bar and ordered a beer, a wine, and a 12-inch slice of heaven.

Behind the bar was Tracy Shea, former CNN journalist, and outside spinning pizzas was none other than his wife, Toni Senecal, host of the travel series “Toni On.” And let me tell you, they were as delightful as the food. Warm, genuine, and full of great stories, they made us feel like locals. The pizza? Classic Neapolitan, perfectly blistered crust, simple, divine toppings—and yes, we could have easily demolished a second one.

We sipped drinks (shoutout to the excellent French Chenin Blanc!) and shared stories with other patrons, including a couple who, inspired by our great loop tale added the loop to their own bucket list.

Owner Tracy and Bartender Blake
Co-owner Toni on the Right along with her helper and the Italian Pizza oven

As we were leaving, Tracy catches up with us and hands us a bag. Inside was a bottle of the French Chenin Blanc I was drinking along three large cans of their very own Lager! What a surprise!!!

It was one of those completely unplanned, serendipitous afternoons that end up being the true highlight of a trip. So here’s my heartfelt advice: if you ever find yourself in this neck of the woods, don’t miss Croton Tapsmith. Good food, great people, and the kind of place that makes you feel right at home.

We eventually made it back to our boat, full, happy, and still smiling. Days like this remind you that the best parts of travel are often the surprises you don’t see coming.

911 Memorial at Croton Landing
It is a sundial utilizing one of the steel beams from the North Tower of the World Trade Center. The life size statue of the girl is reaching through the shadow of grief towards a sense of hope and healing.

Day 72 Liberty Landing Marina (Jersey City, NJ) to Half Moon Bay Marina (Croton-on-Hudson, NY)

Friday June 6, 2025

We cruised up the majestic Hudson River toward our next stop—a marina where we’ll be staying for the next three nights. The river was like glass, the air thick with summer warmth, hitting a toasty 88 degrees. It was an absolutely gorgeous ride, with views that never got old.

Once docked, we jumped into action—gave the boat a much-needed rinse, had our groceries delivered right to the marina (talk about luxury!), and whipped up a quick dinner. After a quick rain shower passed, we capped off the day with a lively docktail gathering alongside fellow Loopers—laughs, stories, and plenty of cheer all around. Life on the Loop doesn’t get much better than this!

Day 71 Great Kills Harbor, NY to Liberty Landing Marina, NJ

Thursday June 5, 2025

Today was the day we made our grand approach into the iconic New York Harbor—what a milestone! We cruised along with our trusty buddy boats, Goldilocks and 2nd Miss-Conduct. While they planned to continue up the Hudson River, we had a different adventure in mind: an overnight stay directly across from the glittering skyline of downtown Manhattan.

Verrazano-Narrows Bridge A double decker!

The plan? Travel together just long enough for us and Goldilocks—both first-timers—to get that quintessential Looper photo in front of none other than Lady Liberty herself. A rite of passage!

But of course, nothing’s ever that simple. As we passed under the majestic Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, we spotted an unexpected spectacle—a practice run for this weekend’s SailGP Grand Prix. These aren’t your average sailboats—they’re sleek, hydrofoiling machines that literally fly above the water, reaching jaw-dropping speeds up to 40 mph. They were mesmerizing!

Suddenly, chatter crackled over the VHF: the Coast Guard was shutting down the area until 3:45 p.m. Uh-oh. Would we miss our photo op? Thankfully, our lead boat—our NYC-savvy captain—made a quick call and got the inside scoop on a safe path through. Crisis averted!

Moments later, there she was—the Statue of Liberty, as grand and graceful as you’d imagine. We each took very quick turns posing with her, snapping that unforgettable Looper shot. Mission accomplished!

Sea U Later in front of Lady Liberty

Just a half-mile past the statue, we peeled off to our marina for the night while our friends continued north. Virtual hugs, waves, and promises to meet again were exchanged. Jeff, cool and collected, backed the boat into the slip like a total pro—he’s definitely found his groove at the helm!

Our slip couldn’t be more perfect: front-row seats to the New York City skyline. To our surprise and delight, this marina was also home base for the SailGP teams. We watched in awe as the race boats were hauled out of the water by crane, de-rigged, and tucked away in massive pop-up buildings. It was like watching a pit crew in action—pure nautical choreography.

Groceries? Delivered via Instacart (game changer!). Later, we caught up with our dear friend Charlie from Long Island, who joined us for a fabulous dinner at Maddy Rose at Liberty House. Delicious food, great company, and waterfront views—what more could we ask for?

Charlie headed off to meet his brother Ron (also a good friend), and we returned to our boat just in time to witness Manhattan come alive. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the city lit up like a dream. I snapped a photo that I’ll treasure forever.

NYC❤️🍎❤️

All in all? A spectacular day. One for the books.

Day 70 Sandy Hook, NJ to Great Kills Harbor, NY

Wednesday June 4, 2025

We pulled up anchor from our stunning harbor hideaway and cruised deeper into the iconic waters of New York Harbor, accompanied by our trusty Looper friends aboard Goldilocks and 2nd Miss-Conduct. After a couple of scenic hours, we tucked into a well-protected anchorage where all three of us picked up mooring balls—our floating homes for the night.

The plan? Head into the city that never sleeps and soak up as much as we could in an afternoon. This was a big deal for our friends on Goldilocks—they’d never been to New York and were a little apprehensive. Naturally, we offered to be their city guides.

We didn’t make it into Manhattan until after 2 p.m., after hopping a train from Great Kills and then catching the Staten Island Ferry—complete with postcard views of Lady Liberty herself. First stop: Ellis Island. Walking through the halls of immigrant history was a powerful reminder of just how many journeys began right there.

One of a few practicing for the Mubadala New York Sail Grand Prix this coming weekend!

From there, with stomachs growling, we set our sights (and taste buds) on Katz’s Deli. But when we got there just after 5, the doors were shut tight for a private event. Closed until 9 p.m. Ugh! So close, yet so pastrami-less.

But all was not lost—2nd Miss-Conduct, who had been to NYC before, had a fantastic Plan B. Off we went to Ellen’s Stardust Diner, right near the Broadway theaters. This retro spot is famous for its waitstaff made up of aspiring Broadway performers who belt out show tunes (and more!) between delivering burgers and drinks. The place was electric—singing, dancing, and such infectious energy that we completely forgot about missing Katz’s. Bonus: the food was great too!

All of the singers were amazing!

She was our waitress!

After dinner, we wandered through the neon wonderland of Times Square, soaking up the sensory overload and snapping more than a few photos. By the time we made our way back to the mooring field and climbed back aboard, it was just after 11 p.m.—our feet were tired, but our spirits were sky-high.

A full day in the Big Apple, and fun was absolutely had by all.

Day 68 & 69 Ocean City, NJ to sandy Hook, NJ

Monday & Tuesday June 2-3, 2025

MONDAY

Apparently, we dragged a bit overnight, and with the tide slipping out, we woke up perfectly perched on a sandbar. And yes, we anchored near an island literally called “Drag Island.” What could possibly go wrong?

A Not-So-Smooth Start at Drag Island (Yes, Really)

Well… the plan was to get up early and hit the ocean while it was still calm. Coffee brewed, anchor routine underway, all systems go—and then… surprise! We’re aground.

Cue the call to TowBoatUS.

Our tow

Our rescue arrived and quickly decided that the only way to get us free was a bit of creative engineering—he spent two hours using prop wash to dig us out and create a makeshift channel. Low tide didn’t do us any favors, but eventually, we were floating again.

As if that wasn’t kind enough, he offered to lead us out to the ocean and even showed us a shortcut—

Off we go again… chalking it up as just another chapter in the adventure! ⚓😅🌊

The ocean was beautiful today. Calm winds for most of the day made our 5.5 hour trip very pleasant. We made our way into Barnegat, NJ to anchor for the night.

TUESDAY

After a restful night’s sleep, we set off early once again, the ocean calling us back to its rhythm. Our first stop was Manasquan for fuel—but what should have been a quick pit stop turned into a test of patience. Something was clearly off with the pump; it trickled at a glacial pace, taking nearly two hours to load 177 gallons of diesel!

Eventually, we were back on course, rewarded with a smooth, serene ride up to Sandy Hook. The seas were kind, the skies clear—a picture-perfect day on the water.

We dropped anchor for the night and soon reunited with our friends aboard Goldilocks, along with a Canadian couple they’d been cruising with. Together, we took the dinghies ashore and capped off the day with a lively dinner full of laughter, good stories, and even better company. A fantastic evening to end a truly memorable day.

Days 65-67 Cape May to Ocean City, NJ

Friday May 30-Sunday June 1, 2025

Friday

We made our way up the New Jersey Intracoastal Waterway to Ocean City today. Some folks had warned us about shallow spots, tight channels, and local fishermen who like to camp out smack in the middle of the channel—and apparently don’t feel much urgency to move. Others opted for the ocean route today since the winds were calm. Our friends took that path and headed to Atlantic City.

Houses along the way
All the fishermen in the channel

But me? I had my heart set on seeing the famous Ocean City boardwalk, so that’s where we stopped. The ICW does have its tricky parts, sure—but we timed our trip with a rising tide and high tide and were rewarded with plenty of water under us. We draft 3.5’ and never saw less than 6.3’. The channels are definitely narrow, and yes, there were a few stubborn fishermen, but it wasn’t too busy and most moved aside in good time. All in all, a smooth ride.

The weather didn’t do us any favors—it was gray and gloomy, not exactly postcard-perfect. Still, the trip was interesting, and it beat the fog our ocean-going friends ran into for a good chunk of their journey.

Once tied up, we had three goals: walk the boardwalk, hit the grocery store, and grab a bottle of wine or two. First stop—the boardwalk. And what did we find? Fog! Still lingering! I figured it would’ve burned off by then, but no such luck. Even in the mist, though, the boardwalk was full of charm. I loved seeing all the old-school signs and vintage motels that somehow still look brand new. Some of the shops have been there since the 1930s. It felt like stepping back in time—and it definitely scratched the curiosity itch.

On the way back, we stopped by the grocery store and stocked up. Then came the liquor store hunt. And here’s where I struck out… again. Ocean City, it turns out, is a dry town. No liquor stores. No alcohol in restaurants. Nothing! This makes strike two for me—Jeff still teases me about the time I brought us to Ephraim, WI, (Door County) also famously dry. What can I say? I have a knack.

Saturday

Another blustery, rain-swept day—but we weren’t about to let it keep us inside. By afternoon, we managed to sneak in a walk down to the boardwalk. It was alive with energy—rides spinning, kids laughing, music floating through the air, and yes, I could finally see the ocean today!

But Mother Nature had her own schedule. Dark clouds rolled in quicker than expected, and before we knew it, the skies opened up. We dashed for cover and found shelter under the canopy of a nearby motel, laughing as we dripped like soggy tourists.

Once the rain eased up, we set off again—but the streets were now miniature rivers. Jeff, with his long legs, practically leapt across them like a pro. Me? Let’s just say I took on a bit more water than planned. 😅

We made it back just in time for round two of the downpour… and then, as if nothing had happened, the sun returned, shining like it was all just a dream.

Never a dull moment around here! 🌧️☀️🎡🌊

Sunday

Today brought another dose of strong winds, but we rolled with it. We timed our departure perfectly, slipping out of the marina at slack tide and finding a peaceful spot to anchor for our final night in the area. Mission accomplished!

The afternoon unfolded at an easy pace—just how we like it. A little reading, a few light chores, and then the real highlight: fresh grouper fish tacos, made right on board. Let’s just say they tasted like a postcard from paradise. 🌮🐟🌅

As the sun dipped lower, the wind finally gave us a break, settling into a gentle breeze—perfect for a solid night’s sleep on the hook.

Tomorrow? We point the bow north and head out into the open ocean. A new leg of the adventure awaits!

Looking toward Atlantic City

Day 62, 63 & 64 Rock Hall, MD to Chesapeake City, MD to Delaware City, DE to Cape May, NJ

Tuesday May 27, 2025-Thursday May 29, 2025

Tuesday

A calm start to our somewhat long day was a welcome relief. The bay was almost like glass, the air stood still, and these insects that look like mosquitoes—Chironomus crassicaudatus, otherwise known as thick-skinned midges—were everywhere! They don’t bite, but they are incredibly annoying. One even tried to fly up my nose while I was writing this. Jeff said it was karma for speaking ill of them! Now I understand why we hauled the leaf blower all this way.

As we passed by the river leading up to Baltimore, we could see the Francis Scott Key Bridge through the binoculars. The missing section, still being rebuilt, was clearly visible. It’s slated for completion in 2028 and will be taller, designed to accommodate larger vessels.

About three-quarters of the way to Chesapeake City, we could definitely feel the tide change. As we move into this next leg of our trip, it’s clear we’ll need to be much more mindful of the tides and currents—they’re much more pronounced in this area.

Chesapeake City is a charming little town. Of course, not much was open on a Tuesday. We managed to visit the C&D Canal Museum just before closing. The canal, completed in 1828, stretches 15 miles and connects Chesapeake City, MD to Delaware City, DE. It’s one of the busiest canals in the world. Originally, it had four locks on two levels, but over time they deepened the channel and removed the locks.

The museum is housed in the original canal pump house complex of the first lock. They had an 1851 steam engine on display, once used to power the lift wheel. The massive cypress lift wheel itself is still there—it was fascinating to see.

We walked around town afterwards. Jeff found a candy store (he was in heaven), and we stumbled upon an old toy store with toys in the window from the 1940s and ’50s. We really wished it had been open.

We’re anchored tonight in a well-protected area with our friends from Too Nasty and Goldilocks. Tomorrow, we head through the C&D Canal. The current is strong and the forecast looks awful—wish us luck!

Our anchorage

Wednesday

We knew the forecast called for rain—and rain it did. Reluctantly, we got ready for our canal adventure. How hard could it be? It was only 15 miles, roughly two hours. We headed out, just like the others, planning to go through on a rising tide.

That rising tide, combined with the rain, brought plenty of debris—logs and who-knows-what else—floating in our path. The wind and rain made visibility tough. And just as we approached the bridge (the one that always stays open unless a train is coming), of course, it started to close.

So there we were, holding position in wind, rain, and current for 15 minutes while the train rumbled through. That was… fun.

When we finally made it to the marina, we found it super narrow, and the current in there was even stronger than out on the canal. We managed to dock, but then the dockmaster asked us to turn the boat around to face the other way. He handled it single-handedly using just two stern lines and the current—you could tell he’s done this a thousand times. Impressive!

It rained all day and night. We spent part of the afternoon doing laundry, and later we gathered with the other Loopers planning to head down the Delaware River tomorrow. The local harbor host for the Chesapeake Bay/Delaware Bay region met with us and gave a weather and tide briefing, along with important tips for navigating down to Cape May, NJ.

A few of us braved the rain for a walk to dinner, trying to keep spirits high despite the weather. This is definitely one of those “go…no go” moments. Winds are predicted to be stronger than we’d like by the time we reach the bottom of the bay. We’ll reassess everything in the morning before making a final call.

Thursday

We woke up to fantastic news—the wind forecast had shifted in our favor, and it was all systems go! We knew it would be a long day on the water, but Mother Nature was on our side. The weather was absolutely perfect—blue skies, calm seas, and just enough breeze to keep us cool.

We spent nearly seven hours cruising down the Delaware River toward the Atlantic, making great time. As we neared the coast, we veered off into a channel leading us into charming Cape May. It was the perfect place to drop anchor for the night—peaceful, scenic, and a well-earned rest after a full day on the move.

Tomorrow, we’ll decide our next destination. For now, we’re enjoying a quiet evening on the hook, grateful for smooth seas, sunny skies, and another beautiful day on the Great Loop.

Days 60 & 61 Annapolis, MD to Rock Hall, MD

Sunday & Monday May 25-26, 2025

After a few busy and exciting days exploring Annapolis, we made the short hop—just over two and a half hours—to Rock Hall, Maryland. It was an easy cruise, made all the better by the promise of good company, great food, and live music.

We had plans to meet up with our friends David and Candace from Too Nasty to grab a bite and check out the “porch music” happening around town. After getting settled on the hook, we hopped in our dinghies and made our way to the dock, where a friendly local shuttle whisked us away to Waterman’s Crab House—one of my personal bucket list stops!

Our shuttle driver was a schoolteacher moonlighting on the shuttle for the weekend. She told us to ask for her friend, a waitress at Waterman’s (and also a teacher), and we’re so glad we did. Our server was a gem—insightful, funny, and full of local charm that made the whole experience even more special.

It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon on a holiday weekend, so naturally, Waterman’s was buzzing. A great band was playing—right up our alley—and the place had that perfect laid-back waterfront vibe. We enjoyed a delicious lunch, soaking in the music and weather while catching up with David and Candace.

Our other friends, Bonnie and Louis from Goldilocks, also made their way to Rock Hall that day, but the timing didn’t quite work out for a meetup. Hopefully, we’ll connect with them at another stop soon—Loop life always seems to offer another opportunity just around the bend.

All in all, Rock Hall delivered: crab house dreams fulfilled, music on the breeze, and time well spent with great friends. A day to remember!

The band “Weird Science” at Waterman’s Crab House

The next morning, we woke up to find our fridge and freezer not behaving as they should—again. Boat life sure has its way of keeping you humble. Nothing like a warm fridge to snap you out of vacation mode.

Thankfully, our ever-resourceful captain managed to finagle a temporary fix so we could limp along. After some troubleshooting, we realized we had likely drained the house batteries a bit lower than ideal. It’s a delicate dance keeping everything balanced when you’re anchoring out and trying to minimize generator time.

Lesson learned: we’ll need to run the generator a bit longer, especially on high-use days. The fridge seems stable for now, and we’re grateful it didn’t require anything more dramatic (or expensive) to get back on track.

Ending on a High Note

We wrapped up the day in the best possible way—hosting a happy hour aboard with fantastic friends David & Candace (Too Nasty) and Louis & Bonnie (Goldilocks). We shared stories, compared notes on boat issues and upcoming plans, and—most importantly—shared a whole lot of laughs.

These are the moments that make the Loop so special. The people, the connection, the unexpected reunions—they’re what turn a simple stop into a lasting memory.

View from our anchorage

Days 55-59 St. Michael’s, MD to Annapolis,MD

Tuesday-Saturday May 20-24, 2025

We ended up leaving for Annapolis a day earlier than planned, thanks to the forecast calling for rain and strong winds. The trip started off quietly enough—calm seas, easy cruising—but things definitely picked up as we neared Annapolis. We’d heard the Blue Angels were scheduled to practice on Tuesday and perform on Wednesday, but wow—nothing could’ve prepared us for the chaos on the water!

Boats were everywhere—racing full throttle, jockeying for the perfect anchor spot like it was a regatta. It felt like we’d motored straight into a floating tailgate party. Then, out of nowhere—zoom!—the Blue Angels roared overhead, streaking across the sky as we made our way in. It was loud, fast, and completely electrifying.

As we entered the harbor, we were greeted by an incredible sight: hundreds of boats anchored along both sides, all waiting for the aerial spectacle to begin. We navigated carefully through the crowded harbor to our designated slip, where we’ll be docked for the next four nights. Once tied up and settled, it was time for a well-earned lunch, a celebratory adult beverage, and a prime seat in our bow chairs—ready to take in the show from the best spot in town: our own boat.

And what a show it was! The Blue Angels were absolutely incredible—thundering overhead in tight formation, impossibly close, and leaving trails of excitement in their wake. We had no idea when we first planned this trip that it would coincide with USNA Commissioning Week. Turns out, Tuesday was just the practice run. The main show was Wednesday, and they’ll do a final flyover for graduation day on Friday. Talk about perfect timing!

Wednesday was a very rainy, windy day — perfect for tackling laundry and boat projects (have I mentioned there are always projects on a boat?).

We did get a break in the afternoon and took the opportunity to stroll through Old Town. It’s incredibly quaint, full of charming shops and — thanks to graduation weekend — absolutely packed with people.

There was a buzz that the Blue Angels might try for a bit of a show, but the weather just wasn’t on their side. Still, crowds gathered along the streets and filled the balconies, hopeful. Unfortunately, the clouds kept dropping lower and lower until the show was finally called off.

We felt very lucky to have arrived a day early and caught their practice run — LUCKY!

Thursday turned into something truly special. We had pre-purchased a self-guided walking tour of the Naval Academy Yard, but plans changed in the best possible way—an old coworker reached out to let us know his son, Josh, had just finished his first year at the Academy and was still on campus. He offered to show us around, and of course, we took him up on it!

Josh was a fantastic guide. He brought us through Dahlgren Hall, a hub for many midshipmen activities, and then to the breathtaking main chapel, where we also visited the crypt of John Paul Jones. Next was Preble Hall, home to the Naval Academy Museum. The first floor showcased naval history, while the second floor displayed an impressive collection of antique ship models—including some carved from human bone by French POWs in the early 1800s. A fascinating (and slightly eerie) piece of history!

We were also awed by Bancroft Hall—the largest dormitory in the U.S., housing 4,400 midshipmen with nearly 5 miles of corridors and 1,700 rooms. It’s truly a city unto itself.

While exploring, we were lucky to catch parts of the Color Parade, a formal event all midshipmen participate in—except Josh, who had a broken wrist and was excused. The highlight was seeing the seniors carry out their tradition of running to take a celebratory swim in the fountain at the parade’s end. What a joyful, spirited moment!

(Not my photo)

It was an unforgettable tour—made even more meaningful thanks to Josh’s insights and stories.

On Friday, we met up with our friends Bonnie and Louis and took a self-guided tour of the Maryland State House in Annapolis. It’s the oldest state capitol in continuous legislative use and features the largest wooden dome of its kind in the United States—remarkably built without nails. For a brief period from 1783 to 1784, it even served as the U.S. Capitol. One of the most historic moments that took place there was General George Washington’s resignation as Commander in Chief of the Continental Army. The building is filled with fascinating artifacts and artwork, making it a true treasure trove of American history.

Saturday we were planning to move on but the high winds changed that for us. We decided to leave the marina and grab a mooring ball for a night. We just relaxed on the boat, did a few chores and had what loopers call “docktails” with many other loopers that were here that evening. Tomorrow we are headed to Rock Hall, MD.

Days 52-54 Solomon’s Island, MD to St. Michael’s, MD

Saturday- Monday May 17-19, 2025

We woke up around 2am to find that power had been restored to the block. Thank goodness, we were roasting. We turned the air back on and slumbered back off to sleep. Below is the screen shot of the wicked storm that passed through and disturbed so many folks’ Friday night fun.

Due to the windy weather forecast, we changed our plans to stop in Oxford. Instead, we headed directly to St. Michael’s, MD.

Our first day (Saturday) was spent anchored in a serene, wind-sheltered bay, where we enjoyed pure relaxation. We basked in the afternoon sun, letting its warmth melt away the stress of the week.

Later, we set off on a leisurely dinghy ride, winding through narrow, picturesque channels. Elegant homes lined the shores, their manicured lawns a vibrant green against the golden light of early evening. Every turn felt like a scene from a storybook—tranquil and beautiful.

As twilight settled in, the soft hum of celebration drifted across the water—two weddings were happening nearby, filling the air with laughter, music, and the unmistakable buzz of love. What a delightful evening!

The next two days we spent in a marina so we could explore the town. Let me begin by saying that St. Michael’s, Maryland, is easily one of the most picturesque towns either of us have ever encountered. Nestled along the Chesapeake Bay, it exudes historic charm and timeless beauty. The homes—many of which date back to the early 1800s—are impeccably maintained, their weathered facades full of character and stories. Lush gardens bursting with colorful blooms that fill the air with sweet, fragrant scents.

The town itself offers a delightful mix of charm and sophistication. Quaint, independently owned shops line the main streets, each one full of unique treasures and local artisan goods. A diverse array of restaurants caters to every palate, while several nearby wineries and craft breweries provide the perfect spots to unwind and savor the flavors of the region.

We kicked off the day with a visit to the Motor Museum, home to a rotating collection of gleaming classic cars, vintage motorcycles, and nostalgic memorabilia that revved up Jeff’s inner gear head.

With a little unexpected downtime afterward, I dusted off an old pandemic-era skill and gave Jeff a haircut—surprisingly, it turned out pretty well! Not too shabby for my first attempt since the Covid days.

Later, we met up with two fellow Looper couples at a lively local hotspot called Roxy’s. The place was buzzing with energy—perfect for swapping stories over cocktails and soaking up the good vibes.

Kate & Andrew from “Tortuga” and Patrick & Leila from “Grand Life“

From there, Jeff and I wandered over to Limoncello, where we shared a delicious Italian dinner that hit all the right notes.

The next day, we explored the Chesapeake Maritime Museum, a beautifully curated space with the largest collection of traditional watermen boats in the entire bay. A real maritime treasure trove!

To top things off, we reconnected with Looper friends David and Evy for drinks and pizza. They were so impressed by Jeff’s new ‘do that David asked for one too—so out came the clippers again, and I added “Loop Hair Stylist” to my resume!

Me cutting David’s hair

Days 49-51 Crisfield, MD to Solomon’s Island, MD

Wednesday-Friday May 14-16, 2025

As we pulled up anchor and departed Crisfield, MD, the water lay flat as glass, barely a ripple in sight—only the gentle hum of the engines breaking the morning silence. A soft, milky fog cloaked the bay, muffling the world in an otherworldly stillness. The sun struggled to pierce through. Shapes of crab pots and channel markers emerged like specters, only to fade again into the haze. It was a crossing suspended in time—quiet, slow, and eerie, with just the distant call of gulls echoing through the fog. The boat cut a silver path through the still waters, each mile blending into a serene, dreamlike passage across the Chesapeake.

After an eerie yet peaceful 5.5-hour voyage, we’ve arrived at the beautiful Solomon’s Island Yacht Club, where we’ll be staying for the next three nights. A big thank-you to the AGLCA harbor host here—he went above and beyond to arrange accommodations for Loopers passing through, including securing a great rate with the club.

The sun has returned, casting a warm glow over the harbor, and it’s truly a stunning area to explore—calm waters, charming surroundings, and a relaxed pace that invites you to linger. We were delighted to reconnect with Goldilocks, who also pulled into the yacht club and will be staying an extra day to soak it all in. Unfortunately, we just missed our friends aboard Too Nasty—they were here for the past few days but have since made their way up to St. Michaels. It seems we’re following just a few days behind them, like a friendly game of nautical leapfrog.

During our stay over the past few days, we’ve been fortunate to take in several local sights—and one highlight was an unforgettable private tour of the Patuxent River Naval Air Museum. We were incredibly lucky to have the tour led by the vice commodore of the yacht club, who also serves as a docent at the museum. A Navy veteran with nearly 40 years of service—many of those spent right here at PAX—he brought the exhibits to life with an impressive depth of knowledge and a treasure trove of firsthand stories. His insights into the history, design, and missions of the aircraft on display added a deeply personal layer to the experience that we’ll never forget.

In addition to the Naval Air museum, we enjoyed a night of docktails with fellow Loopers—lots of laughter, shared stories, and familiar faces from earlier stops. It’s always energizing to reconnect on the water.

We visited the Calvert Marine Museum and Drum Point Lighthouse.

As we wandered through the area, I couldn’t help but be struck by how peaceful and picturesque it is here. The homes are beautifully maintained, each with its own charm, and the gardens are bursting with color—flowers in full bloom, their sweet fragrance drifting through the air. There’s a quiet elegance to this place that invites you to slow down, breathe deeply, and simply enjoy the moment.

Meals ashore added flavor to the stop: one night we split a hearty lasagna and fresh salad at Island Hideaway—cozy spot, great service. Another afternoon we grabbed blackened rockfish tacos at the Tiki Bar and Grill—just a short walk away.

Shortly after we got back to the boat, a quick but intense storm rolled through. Thunder cracked, lightning lit up the sky, and just as it was wrapping up, the marina lost power. Word was that lightning hit a transformer nearby.

Days 47-48 Tangier Island, VA to Crisfield, MD

Monday May 12-Tuesday May 13, 2025

We left the island of Tangier to make our way to Crisfield, MD. It was only a couple of hours. We found a great anchorage right in the harbor. It is very well protected from the wind and Chesapeake Bay. This town is known for being the crab/seafood capital of the world. Many watermen make their living crabbing and/or oystering in the bay. There are still many processing plants and crab packing plants here.

We were here too before the season really gets started and on top of that, it was rainy. We anchored in the protected harbor and made our way in to walk around the town and check it out. Super quiet, but I can see how it can become much busier during the season. It was a good place to have seafood, ride out the crappy wind and weather and then move on.

The chimney on James Island near Crisfield, often called “the Stack,” is all that remains of a former menhaden fish processing plant. The plant, located on the south end of the island, operated from 1908 to 1929, initially processing fish and later making fertilizer. The plant was destroyed by fire in 1932, leaving only the chimney standing. This town had a very well done museum. Small but mighty! Worth the visit.

Day 46- Onancock, VA to Tangier Island, VA

Sunday May 11, 2025

We left Onancock for a 2 hour ride over to Tangier Island which is in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay, VA.

Accessible only by boat or small aircraft, Tangier is home to fewer than 400 residents, most of whom are descendants of English settlers who arrived in the 1600s.

They say their distinct accent, with traces of Elizabethan English, is immediately noticeable and often referred to as one of the most unique dialects in America, however Jeff and I really didn’t notice that. Trust me, I was listening for it!

Families have lived here for generations—many still working as watermen harvesting the Bay’s iconic blue crab.

They have a school here for pre K-12th grade and had one senior this year.

We took an island tour on a golf cart to see what we could while we were there. The people there are very friendly and offer to do anything to help.

There were a few restaurants but only one was open when we were there. Their season doesn’t start until Memorial Day for tourism. We ate at that restaurant (Lorraine’s Seafood). Due to it being Mother’s Day it was very busy. We had shrimp and cream of crab soup and of course French fries for Jeff. It was very good.

The sad thing is the Island is sinking. It has lost over 60% of its landmass since 1850. Erosion, rising sea levels, and frequent storms have battered its shores, and many experts predict the island could be uninhabitable within the next few decades without serious intervention.

It was an interesting stop. The people all seemed very happy. We could not live as isolated as they do. They have ferry service that brings their supplies, food and mail from the mainland each day. They told us that sometimes the water freezes in the wintertime and then the coastguard has to come out and break up the ice so they can get their supplies.

Peaceful night!

Days 43-45 Yorktown,VA to Deltaville,VA to Onancock,VA

Thursday May 8 to Saturday May 10, 2025

We took off from Yorktown around 7:30am to head up to Deltaville. It took about 4.5 hours and was a very nice ride.

Once we were settled in, we did laundry, swam in their pool, used a courtesy car for provisions, relaxed in their rocking chairs on the porch for happy hour and cooked burgers on the grill. It was a beautiful stop.

Friday morning we got up early and crossed over to Onancock, VA. Just a bit over 4 hours. It drizzled a bit, but otherwise all was great. We decided to anchor out the first night and go into the marina the second.

We rented a car for Saturday (they gave it to us Friday afternoon) so we could go visit the NASA Wallop Flight Facility. Of course we were told numerous times that they have the best bakery in town called “Corner Bakery”. It was so good we went there after picking up the car on Friday afternoon and again Saturday morning! The line out the door was something to see!

Of course we spent a little time over at the NASA Center that I had no idea even existed. It was there prior to Cape Kennedy!

We were also told about a creamery over on Chincoteague Island that has the best homemade ice cream and homemade waffle cones! Jeff got Java Jolt and I got Salty caramel. Both they were both delicious, especially when eaten together😊

Island Creamery

Dinner was at a restaurant next to the marina called Mallards. Local and fresh fish, crab and many other great dishes. Great dinner! All in all, Onancock was a fabulous stop and would to totally recommend!

Days 40-42 Norfolk, VA to Yorktown, VA

Tuesday May 6-Thursday May 8th, 2025

So, Monday afternoon after the sessions were over we left the marina, went across the river and anchored. We took our dinghy to our friend’s boat, had a drink and went out to dinner! Nice way to wind it up.

Our anchorage

Tuesday we left to start up the Chesapeake Bay to Yorktown. Started out like glass and very picturesque…but that changed🥹

Once we go into more open water and the wind picked up a bit more than expected, it got a bit rolly. Still wasn’t too bad until we were about an hour or more away from Yorktown. Our friends (Louis and Bonnie) from Goldilocks were pretty close and happened to shoot a video. I thought about trying to shoot one but didn’t think I’d be able to! We had to zig zag (tacking) through the waves and look for crab pots at the same time. FUN!

Once we got into the channel of the York River and out of the Chesapeake, it was much more comfortable. spent a few hours at the dock with Goldilocks, went to the Waterman’s Museum (highly recommend)! I learned quite a few new things! Had a great dinner at a Pub. We both moved our boats to mooring balls for the next two nights.

Wednesday was a full day of the American Revolution Museum, The Battle of Yorktown site and visitor center, monument and the free trolley that went all around. It was a full and great day!

When we got back to our dinghy’s, it was rockin and Rollin so we had a fun jaunt back to our boat. I got completely soaked🤣

The wind finally calmed down so sleeping was pretty good.

Days 35-39 Norfolk AGLAC Spring Rendezvous

Friday May 2-Monday May 5, 2025

Our rendezvous started on Friday afternoon and went until Monday afternoon…lots of great sessions with an overwhelming amount of information. We met so many other current loopers, second and third time around loopers and looper wanna-bees looking for their boat! There were about 360 of us in attendance. It was so informative!

We had a great time and met so many new people. We also learned a great deal! One of the nights we had dinner on our own so Jeff and I explored a cool restaurant that we really enjoyed!

Great food and beverages!

Days 32-34 Roanoke Island, NC to Norfolk, VA

Tuesday April 29th-Thursday May 1, 2025

Tuesday we left Roanoke Island with our friends. It was nice to have a buddy boat (Too Nasty) to cross the Albermarle Sound with. It was a bit rough from time to time, but all in all the crossing was just fine. It took 4 hours. We found an anchorage for the night. The wind really picked up as the day went on so that nights sleep was not the best.

Wednesday morning we got up and went roughly 4 more hours north to another anchorage-North Landing River. It was a beautiful calm day. We FINALLY crossed the line into Virginia. Wow North Carolina was a LONG state! The day got much warmer in the afternoon. Thankfully the night was cool and sleeping was much better.

Thursday we spent about 3 hours getting from our anchorage to Waterside Marina in Norfolk, VA. We had a couple of bridges and a lock to go through. We also stopped along the way to get some fuel. The marina we are at now is very crowded. We are all here for the Great American Looper’s Association Conference. It begins Friday afternoon and goes until Monday morning. It got up to 88 today with over 80% humidity.

Once we got into the city, it was pretty industrial and military!

We arrived at our marina and boy are they packing us in! Should be quite the weekend with all these loopers and all that knowledge coming at us😁

Days 29, 30 & 31-Roanoke Island

Saturday April 26- Monday April 28, 2025

Saturday several others loopers joined us here at the Marina. During the day we got some work/projects done, went for another walk around the town and into a few shops, then headed out to dinner to an Irish Pub with two other looper couples. It was a good productive and fun day.

Sunday we went for a bike ride up to Fort Raleigh (8 miles round trip) at the north end of the Island where we learned about “The Lost Colony”. Neither one of us had ever heard that story before! Can’t say anyone taught me that in history class! The very first english colony was started here on Roanoke island back in the 1500’s by John White. He brought over 117 men, women and children to start a colony in the Chesapeake area. Due to weather, the captain of the ship said they all had to get off on Roanoke. John White and his daughter got off here with them as well. After a few years and a tough time of growing and being able to acquire enough food, they asked John White to go back to England and bring more supplies. He left behind his grown daughter, her husband and his granddaughter at this time. Once he was back to England, the war with Spain had surquestered all ships for the war. It wasn’t until 3 years later, he was able to return. He found no trace of any of the men, women and children (or his family) he had left behind. There have been many theories…like they starved to death, the Indians killed them, they died of disease, etc… The one that is the most plausible is that they decided to live with the Indians and become Indians. You can google that for more information, but we found it very interesting.

Sunday evening we had snacks and cocktails (docktails) with several other loopers. It was a great day!

Monday we got up and walked to a car rental place with our friends David and Candace, from their boat called “Too Nasty”, where we rented a car. We started our day by driving over to the Outer Banks (locally they use OBX for that). We stopped at a Duck Donuts where they have made to order donuts with just about any kind of topping and frosting you would want. They make them while you wait and they are hot and pretty dang good.

Then we spent a couple of hours at the Wright brother’s Memorial and Museum. That was pretty cool.

After that we drove south on the OBX to have lunch at a great restaurant (Miller’s Waterfront Restaurant) that looks over the sound (toward Roanoke Island). They had great food and have been in business since the 80’s. Then we went further south to Cape Hatteras to visit the museum call “The Graveyard of the Atlantic”, a shipwreck museum. Along the way there were plenty of interesting houses to look at as well as SO MUCH SAND and BIG sand dunes! Once done there, we stopped at Cape Hatteras Lighthouse (tallest lighthouse in the US). We knew, but of course its under restoration and has scaffolding all around it. There was a museum there as well. On our way home we stopped to get provisions since we are both taking off tomorrow and the heavy stuff is always better to get when you have a car.

Day 28-Alligator River East Lake Anchorage to Roanoke Island, NC

Friday April 25, 2025

As we left our anchorage in the morning, we had many crab pots to dodge to get back in the channel. Once we got in the Albemarle Sound we still were dodging crab pots. Our day was pretty calm, sunny and warm. We had a show from a Coast Guard C130 doing some training.

We approached the Island of Roanoke (City of Manteo). The whole trip took about 4 hours.

We had a bit of an issue with our slip. They gave us one that was barely 13’ wide and are almost 14’. They figured it out finally and we secured another spot.

We then took a walk to the grocery store, checked out a bit of the town before heading back to the boat.

We will be here until Tuesday morning so we have plenty of time to check out the rest of this quaint town, bike around the island and Monday we are getting a car to explore Hatteras, Kitty Hawk and the Outer Banks.

Day 27-Belhaven, NC to Alligator River East Lake Anchorage

Thursday April 24, 2025

After our breakfast, we decided it was time to go. We have a 50 mile day today. Over 20 miles is through the Alligator River Canal. It is heavily wooded, not many homes and supposedly home to lots of alligators.

We went through a long section that looked like there had been a fire at some point. Black trees, lots of dead amongst new growth. Once we got through the Canal, it opened up to a larger lake. It was pretty open and 20 miles long so the wind came at us. It wasn’t too bad until the last several miles. We were Rockin and Rollin a bit.

I tried to take a video but got my phone a bit wet, so I quit😂

Came to the Alligator River Swing bridge just in time for it to open.

After dodging too many crab pots, we made it to our place for the night. We are here with 4 other boats (3 of them are loopers). The wind calmed down and it should be a good night!

But…did I see one alligator all day?

NOOOOOO!

Day 26-Oriental, NC to Belhaven, NC

Wednesday April 23, 2025

We got up early this morning to get going before the weather turned. We did have rain, but the wind was calm. We got ahead of the line that was moving across so we didn’t have much thunder and lightning. Made a quick stop at another seafood shop. We were hoping for some fresh scallops, but I guess we are just a little too early for them. We bought some grouper instead.

Today’s journey will be roughly 45 miles. We will be spending the night at River Forest Manor & Marina.

We arrived in Belhaven along with several other looper boats. Great setup here.

There is a manor here that was built in 1904. It is part of the marina. They run it as an Inn with 9 rooms. They also have a room for rent above the marina office, which offers great views of the harbor. There is a bistro here, which is where several of us will be having dinner tonight.

We walked to town today, stopped in a couple of stores. Very cute downtown, population is roughly 1400. I didn’t get downtown photos (I should have, it was cute).

We enjoyed the Bistro at the Manor. We started with drinks on the patio with several other couples, then moved inside for dinner. It was a fun night getting to know more loopers! Of course none of us remembered to take a picture🙄

Day 24-Staying in Beaufort, NC

Monday April 21, 2025

A beautiful day to get a few more chores done. Walked to a great restaurant called Queen Anne’s Revenge. We sat outside on the waterfront. We shared a Caesar salad and a homemade pizza- homemade sauce and dough from scratch each day. We had a nice visit with the owner. Highly recommend!

A little history for you:

Queen Anne’s Revenge was a prominent pirate ship, most famously known as the flagship of Blackbeard (Edward Teach) during the Golden Age of Piracy. Before its capture by Blackbeard, it was known as La Concorde and operated as a French slave ship. The ship ran aground in Beaufort Inlet, North Carolina, in 1718 and was discovered in 1996.

We are heading out tomorrow-Tuesday

Day 23- Staying in Beaufort, NC

We started our Easter morning by making Scrambled eggs, French toast and sausages along with mimosas for brunch.

We then went for a nice long walk around this historic town. There are so many beautiful homes still standing, still looking fabulous that were built from the late 1700’s to late 1800’s. They have 16 buildings on the national historic register.

This town of Beaufort, NC pronounced “Boefort”) unlike Beaufort, SC (pronounced “Bewfort”), was established as a fishing village in the 1600’s. It is the 3rd oldest town in North Carolina.

We spent the afternoon doing laundry (free!) and giving the boat a good wash down. After dinner we had another great visit with our fellow loopers!

This marina is so great, we decided to stay another night!

The last picture above is a photo of what this marina started out as. Many shrimp boats. It had a complete renovation about 5 years ago. It’s beautiful!

Day 22-Mile Hammock Bay to Homer Smith Docks & Marina-Beaufort, NC

Saturday April 19, 2025

We got up early (beautiful sunrise), so we could get through the Onslow Swing Bridge, that opened on the top of the hour.

Once we got to the bridge, there were several boats waiting. This bridge has been under construction for quite some time and has been a nightmare for many boats. During the week, they changed to only opening for one hour from 12-1. A couple of weeks ago there was an issue and they couldn’t get the bridge to open at all. There were lots of boats stuck for 22 hours in a spot where you cannot anchor (underground cables). We were very fortunate to not have any issues!

Just after the bridge was an area where the Le Jeune Marine Base Camp and Training facility is located. It was a stretch of about 4 miles. Sometimes you can arrive to go through here and if the lights are flashing, that means they are training and you cannot go through😳 There is no stopping allowed and you cannot go ashore. There are unexploded items!

Here are some more pics of the rest of the trek. We arrived to our marina around 1pm, got docked, had a tour of the facilities and a shower.

Later in the afternoon we met up with fellow loopers we had met in Georgetown. Their boat is called Too Nasty! Great couple! The four of us used the courtesy car, went to a few stores for provisions, then got together later for drinks and stories. It was a great night.

Day 21-Wrightsville Beach, NC to Mile Hammock Anchorage, NC

Friday April 18, 2025

Today we had about 40 miles to our next stop. Still interesting scenery.

We got to our anchorage, but had a bit of trouble finding a good holding. After a couple of attempts, we finally found it. Had a great seared tuna dinner on board and watched another beautiful sunset.

The night was pretty breezy, which made for noisy sleeping, but the anchor alarm never went off so that was a plus!

Day 20-South Port, NC to Wrightsville Beach, NC

Thursday April 17, 2025

We left Southport, NC and cruised up the Cape Fear River. Many large ferry boats, freighters and military go through here.

We didn’t encounter too many, but did have an interesting experience.

This military boat was coming up on us fast. It seemed to be following a center console type boat. Then we see 5 more military boats racing behind the first one. We got out of the way and just watched, not sure what the heck was happening!





They look like they caught up with them just at the bridge. Unfortunately, we were taking a right turn just before the bridge so we didn’t get to see anything more. I’m going to try to see if I can find out what that was all about.

We then went through a pretty swanky area before reaching our anchorage.

Loved the spot we came to. We are in this large anchorage with 9 other boats. Once settled, we took the dinghy to shore, walked just over a block and we were at the beautiful Wrightsville Beach, NC on the Atlantic Ocean. We walked the beach awhile and soaked up the sun before heading back to the boat. I have never heard of Wrightsville Beach before, but it sure was a cutsie old time beach town.

Had dinner on the boat and enjoyed the sunset over large fancy homes. Tomorrow we have about 40 miles to go to our next anchorage.

Days 17 & 18- Wacca Wache Marina to Southport , NC

Monday April 14th & Tuesday April 15th, 2025

We left Wacca Wache Marina Monday morning. It was a beautiful ride through so may cypress trees, beautiful (VERY LARGE) homes, a swing bridge that we needed to open for us until we came to our lunch stop at Barefoot Landing. What a cute place! At this point we are so close to North Myrtle Beach, I could not believe it. The only experience I have had with Myrtle Beach was: it was too touristy, too many shops that all sold the same stuff and chain restaurants. I guess that is only a section of the area. Barefoot Landing has over 50 unique shops and just as many restaurants, which many are not chains.

We ate lunch at Lulu’s, a scratch restaurant that is owned by Jimmy Buffet’s sister. Who knew. Yes, it is a chain but it was great! We parked our boat at the dock, sat outside, then after walked around Barefoot landing to see all they had there. Super cute and i can imagine it can get quite busy!

Then we moved on to an anchorage spot in Calabash Creek. It was awful windy, there were 3 other boats in there with us. We didn’t sleep too well until after midnight when it seemed to calm down some. Even though we were a bit anxious about our anchor not holding (yes we do use the anchor alarm), we made it all night with our anchor doing just fine.

In the morning we then motored on to Southport, NC. Along the way seeing more big houses and still very windy.

We end in Southport Basin on a dock outside a restaurant called Provision Company. We are at the convergence of Cape Fear River and Elizabeth River. We can stay at their dock for the night if we have a meal there. We are going their for dinner. A sever there came and grabbed my line because, YES IT WAS STILL SO WINDY! Prior to getting to the dock we received a call on the radio from someone called Porch Time. Evidently he and his wife did the loop in 2006, live right on the basin in Southport and keep track of loopers coming through in April & May to invite them to their porch at 5pm for happy hour. Yep, we will be going! There are a few more loopers in the marina next door that we hope to meet as well. More to come!

Porch time with Robert and Kay and all the loopers in town!

There were quite a few more loopers than we expected! It was fun to meet everyone! We had dinner with two other couples that we met tonight. It was great.

I think we shall stay until noon tomorrow so we can get to the maritime Museum before heading up to Willington. We are taking a little detour to go see the USS North Carolina.

Fun fact: this small quaint little town has been made famous by several films shot here:

Safe Haven

Nights in Rodanthe

A Walk to Remember

Domestic Disturbance; Summer Catch

I Know What You Did Last Summer

Weekend At Bernie’s

Crimes of the Heart

PLUS several TV shows; most notably is Dawson’s Creek

Days 15 & 16-Wacca Wachee Marina

Saturday & Sunday April 12 & 13

We stopped at Wacca Wachee Marina for a couple of nights. What a great place. They had happy hour with live music both nights.

We had a chance to get to town to get a few items, do laundry, met some nice people and just relaxed.

Tomorrow we head to Barefoot Landing to check that out. We might grab lunch, then head on to an anchorage spot or if we find it intriguing enough, we may stay the night. Who knows?

Days 13 & 14-Staying in Georgetown, SC

Thursday & Friday April 10th-12th, 2025

The last two days, we have just been enjoying the sights in Georgetown. What a great unique waterfront downtown. Georgetown is the 3rd oldest city in South Carolina, founded in 1729. It was known for Indigo and Rice Plantations.

We visited the Maritime museum, went on a swamp fox tour (which was a jeep pulling a tram). The guide was very informative and the homes here are beautiful. Many are over two hundred years old and on the national historic register.

We also visited the Gullah Geechee Museum. The Gullah culture and language was created by Africans brought to the Sea Islands of South Carolina during colonial times. The museum also highlights the contributions of the Gullah people to the Carolina rice culture. 

We took a tour of the Kiminski House Museum. That was also very interesting. They had some pieces that belonged to the Kiminski family dating back to the 1600’s.

The streets had lots of one of a kind shops and all the restaurants were locally owned. There are no chains allowed in the old downtown. So very quaint.

There were also quite a few wrecks in the harbor.

Now we are off to Wacca Wachee Marina near Murrells Inlet/Murtle Beach, SC where we plan to stay two nights.

Day Twelve-McClellenville,SC to Georgetown, SC

Wednesday April 9, 2025

Woke up to a brisk beautiful sunny morning. The high today will be mid 60’s. Very different from the mid 80’s and humid last 10 days we’ve had.

We pull anchor and headed to Leland Oil to get some fuel, ice and walk to a very popular seafood restaurant for lunch. We met the owner (Rutledge) who mostly runs the dock/marina by himself. Super friendly…he offered to drive us to the restaurant but we need the exercise! We decide we will bring him back a piece of pie.

We walked to lunch, passing a 1000 year old oak tree. The town is full of big hoouses and flowers everywhere!

The restaurant (TW Graham & Co) was everything we have read about it. It’s been in business since 1894! Food was terrific! We started with fried green tomato’s and grouper fingers, then shared a flounder/shrimp combo. Of course we had leftovers to bring back along with a piece of their famous key lime pie (and one for Rutledge). That’ll be later.

After stuffing ourselves, we walked to the Carolina Seafood Market. There we bought a pound of fresh shrimp and crab dip.

Back to the boat we went to continue on the Georgetown, SC. We came across a floating swing bridge that is used as a ferry crossing. Interesting.

We were seeing smoke along the way in a few different areas that looked like controlled burns. It was very windy at this time, so that surprised me. Towards the end of the Minim Creek Canal where it dumps into Winyah Bay, there was a large fire right on the edge of the shore. The smoke was awful and visability was not the best. We got through it pretty quickly.

We get into the Bay where the wind really churned up the water. We started out in 1-2 foot swells and ended up in 3-4 foot swells for a bit. We were rockin’ and rollin and even getting wet! It was only about 30 minutes, but still-not my favorite. Good thing I have a good captain!

Once we arrived in Georgetown, we looked for a decent anchorage. We finally settled on one and its just a shrt dinghy ride to the town. We decided to go in for a small bite at Buzz’s Roost. A local favorite dive bar. We shared a burger, which was pretty darn good. We could see our boat from our table and watched a beautiful sunset over the old steel mill.

Tomorrow we will explore the town and stay another night. Rain is likely for Friday, so we may even stay two nights.

Day Eleven-Charleston to McClellenville, SC

Tuesday April 8, 2025

The front that came through last night with rain dropped the temps and the humidity. It’s chilly enough to wear a sweatshirt! First time in 10 days.

We headed out through Charleston Harbor around 9:30am. We have about 4 or so hours to McClellenville. We plan to anchor out overnight tonight.

Looking back at Charleston, SC
Big Tanker
Fort Sumter
Beautiful houses
hurricane warning sign
Will he make it?

Quite scenic on our way to McClellenville!

We found a great anchorage for the night. Tomorrow we will pull up to the town’s marina for a few hours to go enjoy a notoriously delicious seafood restaurant. Looking forward to that. Made some goulash for dinner and the sunset was pretty.

After our seafood lunch tomorrow, we head to Georgetown, SC where we plan to stay a couple of nights to explore the sights.

Day Ten-stayed in Charleston, SC

Monday April 7, 2025

Today our new friends (Patrick and Leila from Grand Life) gave us a ride to get a new belt for the generator and groceries at the grocery store. I did a load of laundry and Jeff fixed the generator (YAY).

We got invited to dinner on their boat. What a gorgeous boat. I mentioned in my last post that they finished the loop last year. In a few weeks they are heading out again to do what’s called the Down East Loop. They head up the east coast to Nova Scotia, then down St Lawrence Seaway to Chaplain Canal to the Hudson. Sounds beautiful!

I wish I had taken a photo of us. We had a great dinner and they were so fun! We dodged in between rain back to our boat.

A picture of their boat. Gorgeous!

Day Nine-Toogoodoo Creek to Charleston,SC

Sunday April 6, 2025

We started the day just after 7am. Our plan was to start the generator, make some coffee then get on our way. We know today is windy and this afternoon windier so we want to get to our marina today by early afternoon.

Started the generator and it shut off within a few minutes. Tried again, same thing. Jeff thinks the fan belt needs to be replaced so we can figure that out once we get to the Marina in Charleston. We pulled up anchor and started on our way. No coffee but we will have it when we get in.

The scenery was beautiful as we got closer to Charleston. The mega yachts were plentiful as well. We are staying at Ashley Marina. They warned us it was a tough harbor to get into, especially since there were winds and currents and tides to attend to. Captain Jeff did a spectacular job with just a bit of help from his 1st mate and a couple of guys on the dock. We got in unscathed. We plugged in and promptly made our coffee. Jeff then dug into the generator and took off the old worn belt. Tomorrow we will get a new one.

A nice couple came over and introduced themselves to us. They saw on NEBO we were here. All loopers that decide to use NEBO can see where other loopers are. They had completed the loop last year and are actually from here. They are also Harbor Hosts to Loopers (which mean they offer to help out in any way they can), so they offered to take us shopping tomorrow for a new generator belt along with a stop at Publix to pick up a few heavier items.

I did a load of laundry, we took a walk, took a shower and will walk uptown 1/2 mile to grab dinner at a place called Fuel. Its a cool island vibe restaurant in an old 1950’s filling station. Looking forward to that!

Dinner was fabulous! What a cute place. it’s called FUEL Charleston Cantina. They have another one on the north end of town called REFUEL. Great food. We both recommend it. we shared the grouper sandwich with fries and a plate of BBQ pulled pork nachos. We could not eat it all so we brought home some leftovers (yes, the fridge is STILL working!)

Day Eight-Beaufort, SC to Toogoodoo Creek

Saturday April 5, 2025

We left our mooring ball to make our way to B&B Seafood House. It’s just a store front where you can buy fresh local seafood. They also supposedly had other homemade goodies, so we thought we’d give it a try and spend the night on their dock. It took a couple of hours to get there, but it was a beautiful day to be on the water. Once we arrived, we went in and bought a pound of fresh jumbo shrimp ($8.50!). But no other homemade goodies! We also decided that we really didn’t want to stay there so we left and went ahead another 20 miles to find an anchorage.

B & B Seafood House

In a few miles we thought we found a good spot to anchor but the current was too strong and we couldn’t get the anchor to hold. We left and continued on until we found a great spot on the Toogoodoo Creek. No problems here. We had a nice breeze, no bugs and a beautiful sunset along with our fresh delicious shrimp dinner.

The night was peaceful until 4am when the wind and the tide woke us up. Our anchor was holding just fine, it was just a little noisy (our stateroom is in the bow of the boat). We managed to get back to sleep.

All in all, it was a good day. We ended up doing 42 miles.

Day Seven-Savannah, GA to Beaufort, SC

Friday April 4, 2025

Today was a longer day but the weather cooperated. We took off from Isle of Hope Marina, which is on the Intracoastal just east of downtown Savannah. We had the use of a courtesy car to get a few more provisions and extra wiring for the fridge. I’m happy to say, the fridge is still working great. Another day and we will know for sure! Fingers crossed!

As we left Savannah, there were so many beautiful homes. We passed a cruise ship that I’ll have to look up and see where they go. that looked fun!

We then had to go through a bridge that was being worked on. The area to go through was pretty narrow (on the right as you look at the picture), but Captain Jeff made it just fine.

More beautiful homes on the water as we get closer to Hilton Head Island.

As we left Hilton Head, we crossed the Broad River (which is pretty broad). I was driving at this point and it got a little rolling. Not scary, just interesting. It was about 4 miles across at the oceans entrance.

We arrived in Beaufort, home of Parris Island- known for Marine Corp training. There is also a US Naval Hospital close by. They have antebellum architecture, which is very well preserved. Huge mansions!

Our next adventure was to grab a mooring ball and tie up for the night. Sounds easy, right? Well, it could have been if we didn’t have to fight a very strong 25 mph wind. Ha! Jeff couldn’t figure out why I was having a hard time grabbing that loop on the ball to get my rope through. I finally got it but then could not hang on to the boat hook any longer. Down it went! We went back around, grabbed our boat hook and continued to try. Finally Jeff took on that task and I maneuvered the boat. Easy? NOPE! He bent the boat hook! We did finally get it and tied up just fine after about 40 minutes of trying. WOW! What an experience. Next time should be way easier!

We then took our dinghy to the dock and had a walk around Beaufort. What a cute town. Most of the scenes from Forest Gump were filmed in Beaufort. We shared a peach ice cream cone and enjoyed all the scenery before coming back to our boat that was so wonderfully attached to that damn mooring ball!

Our map for today

Day Six-Sunbury, GA to Savannah, GA

Thursday April 3, 2025

We left Sunbury at 8:40am to meander to Savannah. We arrived at Isle of Hope Marina just before 1:30pm. We visited again with our support folks about the fridge and so far, I think we may have a plan. They let us use a courtesy car here so we could get some more provisions, and of course needed wire for the fridge long term fix. We didn’t feel the need to go to downtown Savannah this time since we were just here a year or two ago for about a week. We have just enjoyed some down time and a quiet dinner on board tonight. We are sitting on deck as I am writing this with a beautiful breeze out and drinks in our hands. Tomorrow will be a new day, another longer day than today to make our way to Beaufort, SC. We are not sure if we will stay one or two nights there. We will decide tomorrow.





Tomorrow we will have a little longer day, but weather looks great so far!

Day Five-Brunswick, GA to Sunbury, GA

Wednesday April 2, 2025

We left around 9:30am after waiting for the fog to lift. Today we will make our way to Sunbury, GA.

A shot of the fog in the marina
We had about an hour like this before the fog lifted completely.

Today was longer than we expected. Once the fog lifted the day turned out to be quite nice. Until…the flies came… we always called them deer flies growing up, ya know, the ones with that black mark on the back of their wings? They didn’t bother Jeff too much but they really were interested in biting me. I entertained myself seeing how many I could kill. On the bright side, many times today dolphins showed up to put on a show. Oh, and of course we can’t forget about the seagulls. This happened the other day too. They fly behind our boat screeching, then start diving for food that I can only assume our wake is churning up for them.

On the bright side, the dolphins came out to see us!

Love all the Dolphins!

Above are the views we enjoyed today. We did see a few run down (uninhabitated) homes. They look like they coud have come right out of “Where the crawdads sing”. I know, wrong area…

Once we arrived at our destination, we dropped anchor and cleaned up for dinner. We had a reservation at the Sunbury Crab Company Restaurant right on the water. We enjoyed fresh caught grouper blackened and delicious lightly battered fried shrimp. Everything they serve (seafood wise), they catch themselves.

Tomorrow we move on to Savannah.

BONUS: We think we have fixed the fridge! We will see how it holds up.

Day Four-Staying in Brunswick, GA

April 1, 2025

Staying in Brunswick, GA

We decided to stay another night at Brunswick Landing Marina. Great place. We had found a small bakery market yesterday so had bought a cherry danish and a cinnamon danish which we enjoyed for breakfast this morning.

We used a couple of bikes from the marina and rode a couple of miles to a West Marine and a grocery store to get a few supplies. We came back and tried to get the fridge/freezer going (with the help of the manufacture on the phone). We had high hopes it could be resolved, but unfortunately that is not the case.

We cooked up the meat we had in the freezer and now have our goodies in the cooler. We enjoyed hamburgers on the grill for dinner. Tomorrow we will head to Sudbury. There is the Sudbury Crab Company that we will check out for dinner! Looking forward to that!

what a beautiful sunset!

Day Three-Fernandina, FL to Brunswick, GA

Monday March 31, 2025

Fernandina Beach, FL to Brunswick, GA

Our peaceful anchorage that last two nights.

We pulled anchor at 8am, pulled up to Port Consolidate to fill up with diesel. Since we needed it anyway and they have the best deal (as long as you need 200 gallons), we decided to fill up here. Great guy…super friendly and helpful. This dock has been here over 50 years and it services mainly shrimp boats in this area.

After leaving here we made our way past St Mary’s and could see the Kings Bay Naval Submarine Base. Very large…they have a security boat just patrolling the waters out front.

Submarine Base
The large black boat is a submarine tender
Submarine that is having work done

After this area we are heading up the East River between Grover Island and Cumberland Island. Then right through Jekyll Island. I could see so much drift wood I had all I could do not to make a stop.

We headed on up to our Marina stop for the night in Brunswick. What a great place! They informed us happy hour was from 5-7 with free beer and wine, grills are available for our use. Showers and laundry here are both free as well. We walked to a little market and found some fresh baked bread and croissants for breakfast tomorrow. What a cute downtown!

Downtown Brunswick
Zoom in and see the Ritz Theater!
Such a cute street

So… evidently happy hour starts at 5pm and goes to 7pm here. Free wine and beer. Need I say more? We find our way there and listen to some great folks that have just finished doing the loop. Such valuable information! We rush back to our boat as a storm is approaching. We figure we are cooking inside tonight. So we shower and do a load of laundry ( even if we really didn’t need it, but because they offer it free).

Tomorrow is a new day❤️

Day Two-Stay at Fernandina Beach, FL

Sunday March 30, 2025

Staying Put

Today we decided to just stay anchored in Fernandina Beach, FL. The forecast was for thunderstorms and possible tornadoes. Of course it really broke apart before getting to us. We had a very wet drizzle/rain day. We opted to get a few more odds and ends taken care of and also learned our fridge/freezer isn’t working properly when running off the battery. UGH! Good thing we didn’t load it too much with perishables. Tomorrow we head to Brunswick, GA where we will stay in a marina and figure out our fridge.

Day One-Julington Creek Marina to Fernandina Beach, FL

Saturday March 29, 2025

Julington Creek Marina to Fernandina Beach

After spending several days getting provisions, cleaning the boat, unpacking, and double-checking our lists, it is time to say goodbye to Julington Creek Marina and head up the St. Johns River to the ICW to make our way north. Today, March 29, 2025, marks the beginning of our Great Loop adventure aboard our 40’ Cruisers 3970 Express Cruiser. Months of planning have led to this moment, HERE WE GO!!!

Julington Creek Marina

The waters were calm, the breeze was gentle and we had a mix of sun and clouds. We got to downtown Jacksonville and had to wait for a train. The railroad bridge is way too low for most any boat to pass under, so we wait. Just a few minutes pass and the train comes, then the bridge starts to open. This is a bascule bridge. Pretty fun to watch lift up. Just as we are getting close to our turn to go through, the bridge starts to come down again. UGH. Another train wins. We spent a little more time than we wanted at the bridge, but no big deal.

Bascule Railroad Bridge-Downtown Jacksonville

Going up the ICW was pretty interesting. We started out with pretty open shores, not any build up of housing, etc…

Beautiful White Pelicans

All went very smooth until we got to the Nassau River and the southern end of Amelia Island. We were following Bob’s tracks (a very reputable and up to date GPX file that we could download on top of our other navigation tools. There is a lot of shoaling in this area so one must be very studious to stay on course. We, did not. We ran aground. all who do this loop say…it’s not if you run aground, it’s when. I guess we decided to get this out of the way and do it on our first day. Anyway, it was a beautiful day to clean a bit more here and there while we waited for our tow. Thank goodness we decided to buy the towing package from US Tow Boat! He came about an hour after we called. We hesitated calling for at least 40 minutes or so as we on a rising tide. We thought maybe, just maybe we’d get free on our own. NOPE. Once our tow arrived, we were off and on our way.

Captain Andy from Towboat US

We arrived in Fernandina Beach a couple hours later than we had planned, but all in all, the first day was great. We found a great anchorage, took the dinghy to shore and met some great friends for dinner.

Colorful and lively downtown Fernandina Beach